Ridge Monte Bello Cabernets 1990-2002 in magnum (1.5 L) bottles. Tasted at Los Gatos, California (Manresa restaurant) July 2005. With the winemaker, some industry colleagues, other longtime Ridge fans. (A combined dinner-tasting held by a very long-time Ridge fan who furnished the wines.) The bottles were bought annually on release, kept in a single cellar. An unusual MB comparison because systematic cellaring of magnums is much less frequent than of regular bottles.
Overall the wines showed strikingly "young," even at age 15. (That's MB for you.) Concentration and balance were impressive, and personalities of different years despite consistent style -- like siblings in a large family. (Winemaker commented later that these wines were explicitly "assembled to be in balance" whether approached young, or left to develop often to later stages, as were appearing already in some of the vintages here.) Quick preference polls asking first and second favorites after each flight showed notable consensus. Not a corked wine in the bunch. (Winemaker discussed cork Quality Assurance. And barrels. And assemblage of wine from parcels. And sundry other matters, as is his style.) Below are more casual impressions than rtasting notes, from less focus than in regular tasting groups I attend (samples were not even blind).
Notated with cépage in order Cabernet Sauvignon / Merlot / Petit Verdot / Caernet Franc. Letter "T" stands for "Taste" in contrast to smell, and its first appearance marks start of tasting rather than smelling.
First group, 2002-1996.
2002 (74/18/8/0): Soft, alcoholic, soft young wood; Mexican-hot-chocolate aromas (chocolate, cinnamon, almond). T hard young wood, but berryish for this group, moderately concentrated.
2001 (56/36/8/0): Wooded, concentrated-fruit smells. T intense and concentrated with rather sweet fruit. Grape jelly. Almost cloying. Powerful young wood.
2000 (75/23/0/2): Toasty nose, dried orange peel, nutmeg or mace. T is on the fruity side, soft acid, some chocolate, tannins mild for this group. Long, young Cabernet finish.
1999 (72/25/1/2): Wood spices. Lumberyard. Sawn wood. Berries. Coffee-mocha. T very rich berry fruit in this one; like a chocolate bar with blueberries. Creamy note on palate, like vanillin.
1998 (70/24/5/1): Striking complex floral, herbal smells. Young berries, mace or jasmine, cinnamon?, marjoram?, coconut. T unusually concentrated; strong acid, hard; oak, cantaloupe.
1997 (85/8/4/3): Port-de-Salut cheese, maybe turpentine. Rich smells, ashy toast. Orange peel? Berryish, raspberry-turnover was the eventual standout smell besides wood components. T again ash toast, fine Cab character, tannins softer than in the'96. (This wine was very popular of this flight.)
1996 (80/11/9/0): Sassafras, oak. Cedar, dark berries -- blackberry? Nuts. (Hazelnut?) T Nuttiness, nutty wood, concentrated, high acid, bits of coffee.
Paused for small food course of squab and summer vegetables. Then second group of wines.
1995 (69/18/10/3): Wood smells, youngish fruit. Smells much younger than some of the later years. Bit of nutmeg. T pleasant truffly complexity, wood, notable acid, faintly underripe.
1994 (73/15/9/3): Sweet berry fruit; wood smells. T balance, concentration, tending to coffee flavors.
1993 (86/7/7/0): Rustic, faintly moldy? Hazelnut, and raspberry Pop-Tarts (TM) -- a famous exact smell that shows in some wines. T, is the fruit light here? Blueberries.
1992 (80/11/9/0, in 750ml rather than magnum): Highly rustic. Fruit acids. T notable acid, fruit down a little; hard.
1991 (85/10/5/0): Gamy, meaty smells. Ashy toast and hint of sauerkraut. Stilton cheese. T fine coffeeish, truffles, blueberries. (My and the table's clear favorite of the flight.)
1990 (85/10/5/0): Truffly. Fine, maturing Cabernet aromas. Complexity. T cedary; impressive balance and development. Tannic.
Followed by course of roast prime rib-eye beef with fresh porcini, then cheeses. (Later, a little almond cake dessert.). The simple menu was worked out with chef to go with the wines.
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