discovery and euthanasia

Jul 02, 2012 4 Replies

A couple of bin ends that fell through the cracks and deep into the oubliette:



'91 Morgon (Jacques Trichard). No expectations. But actually a big Morgon nose, black fruit, stone, sous-bois. Pleasant in the mouth like old pinot (though all gamay I'm sure) with a lively acidity, medium long. All in all a very enjoyable quaff, and even stood up unexpectedly to spicy peanut vegetables on the side of the roast chicken. I think good cellar conditions in Normandie saved this wine, as far as I can remember it has never traveled (like most of our wine).



'85 Cornas (Delas Freres). Some expectations; Cornas can certainly keep this long but this is not the highest example of the art. Tired mushroomy nose didn't promise much. In the mouth muted bramble and tar with a little leather and smoke. Recognizably old syrah but I wouldn't ever have guessed Cornas blind. Over the hill, we sent it to the long sleep over a non-demanding dinner of lentils with pancetta and spring onions, which it accompanied with all the panache it could muster.


I love it when I find the odd bottle lurking in an overlooked bin in my cellar and I open it with little expectation. I've been working hard to ferret out these wines and I've found far more good than bad which I chalk up to good storage condition and wise buying in the first place..:-)

Yeah, Delas in the '80s wasn't the most exciting of producers. It'd be interesting to know who they got their grapes from, as it might be a vintner of some repute today.

Mark Lipton

True enough. In those days there were far fewer independent winemakers in Cornas; virtually everyone either sold the grapes or brought them to the Coop. Many of the plots there are very small, I think the total AOC (or is it AOP now) surface is only 111 ha.

Good storage really helps! I can't call all of the bottles I've found in this way wise decisions, though. ;) But I agree, it's always fun to stumble across a forgotten bottle, it brings back memories of the time when it was bought -- I think I got the Cornas from Brookline Liquors no less, long before we moved to France! -- and sometimes you find a real surprise.

cheers,

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