What regulates wine in California or Oregon ? What corresponds to DOC/DOCG?
Equivalent to 'DOC/DOCG' in US
Mar 23, 2006
3 Replies
I found this:
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Michael, THe big difference between the AVA and, e g, DOC/DOCG, or DO/DOC in Spain, is, that the AVA system only guarantees that the wine so marked comes from that region (or, rather, that a minimum % comes from that region). There are no constraints as in, what varietals to be used, how to cellar them, how to grow them, or, as is the case in France, have a committe that tstes the wine and judge it for typicity. While this may appear frustrating, I personally find that there may be a good point to it - to wit, as soon as an apellation system has been decided, people will start to work around it ... hence the story of the Italian "table wines" at very high prices and very high quality, as an example. Also, if youhave a good producer, he or she may decide to down-grade his/her wine because he/she does not feel that it meets the highest standards (so you could find a Rosso di Montlacino from an excellent producer that is better than his less illustrious neighbour´s Brunello). Michael Pronay mentioned, a few weeks ago, that in Rust, in Austria, the growers have a gentlemen´s agreement not to produce Ausbruch unless the quality (as measured in must weight) is at least as good as TbA, which is in fact on the formal quality ladder, one step higher. So, in the end, you get back to the probity and workmanship of the producer, and there are severe limitations to relying on the various apellation systems. No doubt producers in Oregon and California will gang up and set their own standards - this happens all the time, Vinea Wachau comes to mind, and the Tastevinage in Bourgogne. Still, the confidence you cn have in them is the confidence they inspire. This is also one of my main reasons for tasting - I taste to learn more and appply that when I visit the producers. You see, my circumstances are, happily, such that I rarely buy any large amounts of wine without first having tasted it. Then, of course, I enjoy it with a meal. Unless it is a Riesling Vendange Tardive which is enjoyed by itself in a comfy arm-chair.
Apparently I digress. Sorry for that.
Cheers
Nils Gustaf
Actually, an attempt was implemented in the US/California some time back to help get closer to a DO/DOC level - Meritage. The experiment basically gave the varietals that could be used, but not much more. It was an attempt to get around the "Table Wine" moniker, as many were doing Bdx blends, that did not meet the BATF standards for volume of any one varietal. Because it was an added expense, many very good producers in the US did not buy ("buy" is the operative, as it cost $ to join the Meritage group, and then to use the tm name, Meritage, on the bottling), into the idea. Unfortunately, there was no real attempt to insure quality, though most subscribers did produce quality wine.
While it would be nice to have some regulation regarding quality, in the US it is too heavily politicized to allow for much of this. I like the idea that a wine labeled Napa, comes from Napa, at least a certain percentage of it.
In some areas of the world, the laws have hurt the more innovative winemakers, and that is a shame. Much of their marketing $ (or whatever) is spent trying to build on their name, and not the DOC label, however good it might be.
Hunt
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