Extraordinary run on 2002 Groffiers

Jun 29, 2004 2 Replies

Of course, as one old wine tasting friend has put it now in bewilderment, no one really needs premium red Burgundies. They are a luxury item and especially expensive in this particular year. ("A luxury in our time? said A. de Villaine to Robert Finigan in 1980, "as they were in 1750, when a bottle of La Tâche cost as much as a postman's weekly salary?") I do not speak today of the Tâche. But some luxurious (concentrated velvety mineraled truffly) red Burgundy now and then can be joyful, and unique, I don't deny it. I am habituated to buying a few bottles of senior Groffier reds in any year that is half decent, and have done so for years, even when others would not. Normally there is time to think.



A few days ago the Groffiers came and went via two usual, _excellent_ channels. One sold out in hours, the other minutes. That same friend, whom some of you know, or anyway have read the work of, characterized the sequence of emails as "breathtaking." (My language was less refined.) And said that journalists have been praising the vintage since October 2002. (I'm not a "minuteman," poised to buy Groffiers at a minute's warning. That would have been necessary.)


-- Post-script: Y'all hotshot linguists might advise (by private email if you prefer -- email for queries of specialized interest is a deep tradition of Netiquette) whence the seeming confluence between the French "tâche," Engl. task, or job, with implicit vestigial S from the circumflex as in hôpital and bâtard; and the German Tasche, Engl. pocket, as in the expression "geben Sie dem Taschentieb keine Chance" (seen at Munich,1972). Serious query; I thought there might be a story somewhere, Google didn't show one, and there was a call here for "angles."



Cheers -- Max


I think Tanzer and Rovani both "pointed" the Groffier 1er Chambolle and Bonne Mares. My budget runs more towards the dependable Bourgogne, but even that has been priced up a bit (combo of vintage hype and exchange rate, I'd guess).

Everything has positives and negatives, and one of the facets of instant info and wine is feeding frenzies when a wine is annointed with points. *

While I quite enjoyed the lone '02 red Burg I've had so far (Gagnard Chass.-M. rouge 1er), I think my Burgundy dollars this year will be spent more cherry-picking 2001s. Besides, if Rovani is this enthusiastic, some wines are likely to be too ripe for my tastes.

Dale

*I currently subscribe to no wine publications (well, actually I get the Wine Enthusiast as a freebie, but find ratings pretty useless a la WS). If I were to subscribe, I think Burghound is one I'd go for.

*sigh* Pretty typical experience for me, Max. Living 120 miles from Sam's in Chicago, many of these "offers" come and go before I ever get a chance to respond. Case in point is Ridge Geyserville, which I try to buy in every year: in years like 1997, it can be nigh unto impossible to locate any (though now I have cultivated a local retailer to retain it for me, but at a higher price than what Sam's would ask for it). Like you and many others here, I am loath to buy wines on the basis of someone's barrel tasting notes unless the producer is one of the few whom I trust implicitly. And since I don't buy Grand Crus by the case, I don't get any particular consideration from an operation like Sam's (though their mailing list and Web-based purchasing system have allayed some of those concerns).

Don't they all derive from Latin taxa/taxare, from whence we get "tax"? The monetary angle with all of them provides the link, I think.

Mark Lipton

Join the Discussion

Have something to add? Share your thoughts — no account required.

Didn't find your answer?

Ask the community — no account required