What follows is a preliminary draft of a travel section on the Rhone Valley. In particular, more dining and lodging recommendations would be welcome (Joseph? Emery?) As always, all comments welcomed.
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3k. The Rhone Valley? The Rhone Valley is a long stretch alongside the Rhone River, from immediately south of Lyon to just north of the Mediterranean Sea. This vast stretch of wine country is typically subdivided into two regions: the Northern Rhone, running from Vienne in the North to Valence and producing mostly red wines made from Syrah and white wines made from either Viognier or Marsanne; and the Southern Rhone, taking in an area extending ca. 12 mi to the north and south of Orange, and featuring both red and white wines made from a complex mixture of grapes (up to 13 for the red wines) but most famous for its Grenache. Most winemakers in this region are also farmers, so don’t expect tasting rooms staffed with employees: usually, it’s the winemaker or their family pouring your wines. For that reason, it’s a good idea to call ahead of time for an appointment.
Wineries:
Northern Rhone
Thierry Allemand (Cornas) – A superstar making supple Syrah from Cornas Mathilde & Yves Gangloff (Condrieu) – Great Condrieu and Cote-Rotie Pierre Gaillard (Malleval) – Condrieu, Cote-Rotie and St. Joseph, all good Jamet (Ampuis) – Fantastic Cote-Rotie from the Jamet brothers Marcel Juge (Cornas) – Traditional Cornas from an old master Michel Ogier (Ampuis) – Great Cote-Rotie and VDP Syrah François Villard (St. Michel) – Great Condrieu, now also Cote-Rotie and VDP Syrah
Southern Rhone
Beaurenard (CdP) – Traditional CdP, oaky luxury cuvee, good CdR and Rasteau, too Bosquet des Papes (CdP) – Honest and traditional Chateauneuf, still reasonably priced Clos des Cazaux (Vacqueyras) – More rustic wine than Chateauneuf Clos des Papes (CdP) – Traditional Chateauneufs from the Avril family Domaine Durban (Beaumes de Venise) – Great sweet Muscat and beautiful views Font de Michelle (Bedarrides) – Refined CdP, fine whites, friendly winemakers Dom. la Garrigue (Gigondas) – Located on the grounds of the Les Florets restaurant Grand Tinel (CdP) – Good value, classic style of CdP; ask about their table wine Domaine du Pegau (CdP) – Traditional, powerful CdP, English spoken here Roger Perrin (Orange) – Best deal in CdP, fabulous in a good year with terrific depth, declassified CdP sold in bulk Vieux Telegraphe (Bedarrides) – Very traditional and famous red and white CdP, now quite pricey
Dining:
Les Florets (Gigondas) – Great food, winery on premises
Lodging:
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Mark Lipton