[LONG] Barcelona, part 2 - wines

Jun 21, 2009 5 Replies

On the Air France flight:



NV Heidsieck Monopole Brut nose: lightly toasty palate: slightly creamy, modest acidity, lemony



'07 La Vieille Ferme Blanc Côtes de Ventoux nose: slightly floral, minerals palate: simple, correct, decent acidity



'04 Marques de Riscal Rioja Reserva nose: meaty, floral palate: red, plummy fruit, perhaps slightly cooked, meat, chalky tannins



Dinner at Monvínic:



'07 Dönnhoff Tonschiefer Riesling Trocken nose: stones and peaches palate: bone dry, grapefruit, high acidity



(with a salad of tomatoes and shrimp, dressed with oil)



'07 Telmo Rodriguez Rueda 'Basa' nose: green, herbal palate: crisp, lean, modest fruit



(with a selection of charcuterie)



'00 Comte Armand Pommard 1er Clos des Epeneaux nose: initially Bretty, later turning into pencil lead and tart raspberry palate: bright, chalky tannins, deep red berry fruit



(with a mushroom salad and pigeon with parmentier)



[N.B.: I had asked Cesar, the sommelier, for advice on which '00 Burg to open, this one or a Chandon de Briailles Corton. His response was that the latter was still very tannic, so we opted for the former and had no regrets]

Wines at El Celler de Can Roca:



NV Albet i Noia "El Celler" Cava nose: floral, lightly fruity with herbal overtones palate; delicate mousse, good acidity, very lightly toasty, creamy texture, herbal finish



This was a mixture of Xarel-lo (the major component), another grape I didn't write down and Chardonnay (in minor quantities).



'07 Rebholz Riesling Trocken "Im Sonnenschein" nose: stones, floral, citrus palate: grapefruit and stones



'05 Can Ràfols dels Caus Xarel-lo 'Pairal' Penedés nose: slight hint of botrytis, slight note of oxidation palate: high acidity, dry, slightly oxidative



Hidalgo 'La Panesa' Jerez Fino nose: butterscotch, nutty palate: bone dry, nutty, oxidative Sherry flavors



'07 Bodegas Valdesil Valdeorras nose: minerals, citrus, a hint of flowers palate: crisp acidity, off-dry



On first whiff, this Godello struck me as very Muscadet-like. In the mouth, the off-dry character distinguished it. An altogether lovely wine.



'06 Clos Mogador Clos Nelin Priorat Blanco nose: alcohol, butter, licorice palate: acidity, rich mouthfeel, white stonefruit



This wine tasted like Roussanne, but is more likely a blend of Grenache blanc with Macabeo. On its own, the wine was a bit hot, but paired with the sea bass with olives, this wine was superb. Quite a revelation.



'03 Clos Martinet Priorat nose: Zinfandel!! spice, pencil lead palate: high acid, spice, Zinberry fruit



One sniff of this and I turned to Jean and asked her, "What does this smell like?" Her instantaneous response was "ZInfandel," thereby confirming that I hadn't lost my marbles. Lively red berry fruit really reminded us of a well-made Zin, made only a little less believable by the high acidity. Not overextracted or overripe.



'04 F. Villard St.Joseph nose: hints of Band-Aid, red fruit palate; forward fruit, grapefruit acidity, gamey complexity



'90 Lustau Oloroso Abocado nose: nutty, butterscotch palate; acidic entry, nuts, peanut butter on the finish



'02 Dr. Bürklin-Wolf RIesling Auslese Gaisbhöhl nose: orange, apricot, botrytis palate: high acidity, citrusy flavors



Fernando de Castillo Pedro Ximénez Jerez nose: raisins, baking spices palate: intense, thick, raisiny



Monvínic revisited:



'05 Schloss Gobelsburg Riesling Alte Reben nose: hint of petrol, lime, stone fruit palate: crisp acidity, rich mouthfeel, citrus



'07 Dönnhoff Riesling Dellchen nose: lime, apricot/peach palate: medium body, fruity



Bodegas Pedro Domecq Palo Cortado Capuchino nose: slightly oxidative, instensely nutty palate: dry entry, spicy, long finish



Additional wine:



'08 Torres de Casta Rosado nose: fresh strawberry fruit, stones palate: crisp acidity, bright, light fruit



(End of travelogue) Mark Lipton


The other grape is either Macabeo (= Viura) or Parellada.

M.

That makes sense, and my best guess is that it was Macabeo, but I just didn't get it written down before I forgot. It's my age showing :(

Mark Lipton

Thanks for the notes Mark. Sounds like a 50th birthday well spent.

Happy birthday and anniversary! Sounds like nice trip. Glad the Comte Armand is drinking well, lots of 2000s are. Interesting you could get so many non-Spanish wines. My experience was Godello is limited, but I've liked ones I tried, though Santiago warned me there's much junk

Thanks, Dale. The two places most of the wines come from (Can Roca and Monvínic) are likely exceptions within Spain. The former is owned by a guy with an importing business and the latter was founded by a obsessive wine lover (a la Veritas). Regarding Godello, here's what Victor de la Serna just told me:

There are several other interesting godello producers in Valdeorras, Bierzo and Ribeira Sacra now. The names to remember are A Tapada (Guitián), Rafael Palacios (As Sortes), Valdesil, Joaquín Rebolledo, Godeval (who are the people who brought the variety back from near-extinction in the 1970s) and Telmo Rodríguez (Gaba do Xil).

Lastly, I notice that some sites like Snooth list Verdelho as an alternate name for Godello, which apparently comes from Jancis Robinson. However, both the producer of Valdesil and VdlS disagree:

Note that you can get godello from northern Portugal too, but in that case the grape's called gouveio.

Mark Lipton

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