Mr. Natural vs. Art

Jun 22, 2004 7 Replies

I've observed a disturbing trend in California wines. I'm not referring to the mass produced, homogenized stuff that Mike et al rail against. This is different.



There are a number of small producers who insist on the "minimalist" approach to winemaking. Frankly, I'm among them - within reason. I feel that the less a winemaker has to "handle" the wine, the less damage he will do to it. For that reason, it has been my custom to never rack my wines until just before bottling. IOW juice goes into barrel, ferments, rests on its lees for a year or more, and at that time is racked to a tank for fining (and filtration, if necessary) prior to bottling.



There are, however, a number of wineries who carry this to what I consider to be a ridiculous extreme.



I recently purchased a bottle of Pinot Noir from an appellation I've been interested in for awhile. I'd never tasted any wines from this producer before, but I had high hopes. I opened it and poured a glass, only to find it cloudy. I thought to myself, "That's odd. A wine this young shouldn't have thrown any sediment yet." Then I tasted it and became outraged that I had paid ~$20US for a bottle of wine that should rightly still be aging in a barrel with its brothers. IOW, I had bought an expensive barrel sample!



This is a new twist on half-assed winemaking IMO. Not only was the wine insufficiently barrel aged, it was also unfined and unfiltered - and it desperately needed at _least_ two of those three!



I realize that the airy-fairy, hippie-dippie approach will always appeal to _some_ - but I find it rather insulting - especially for the price of good wines made in a truly artisanal fashion.



OK, I'm done venting. :^]



Tom S


I agree with everything you wrote Tom. What these winemakers like is common sense and savoir faire.

I like wines that are "minimalist" but well made and that present no defects. As such, I would probably like yours, from your description (where can I find some?).

For example, I do not necessarily advocate using no sulphur, but I appreciate when the dosage has been reduced to the minimum safe level that will prevent my wine from either fermenting in the trunk of the car or turning to vinegar. I may try some zero sulphur wine, if told exactly how to handle it, and if I know that the winemaker has taken all necessary precautions. I am even willing to have the occasional off bottle, as long as I can enjoy most of them.

Now most of the minimalist wines I love have no filtering (except for some filtering on stickies), mostly no fining, NEVER any added yeast cultures. None present a sediment when young, none are cloudy. All are perfectly "stable", or as stable as you want a wine to be... otherwise cellaring would be useless :-)))

COnclusion, if you are going to take the natural path, you better be a very experienced winemaker, an artist.

So, when do I get to taste yours?

Mike

Mike Tommasi, Six Fours, France email link

formatting link

Dear Tom

I agree with you as well but there is a market for this type of "natural" wine.

As Mike said it is possible to unfilter and unfine but you need to have top quality grapes and to leave the wine at least 18 months to become a little stable.

I know one producer near Chablis (Epineuil), The Domaine de L'Abbaye du Petit Quincy who made a wine (Cuvée Juliette) without adding any sulfites at all, it is unfiltered and unfined. It took a lot of work but the wine was worth the effort, I think you can get his wine in the states by his agent, Peter Weygandt Selections.

There are extremes to everything and wine is no exception, some wines are so flat and dull after being grown with huge yields and then pump to death and the others like you just tasted have enough sediment in the bottle you can almost eat it.

Good winemakers now what they can do with quality of grapes they are given!

Marc

"Tom S" a écrit dans le message de news:ruPBc.3329$ snipped-for-privacy@newssvr25.news.prodigy.com...

I know I asked this before, but can you give full details of your winery ? By email...

Mike

Mike Tommasi, Six Fours, France email link

formatting link

Next year at the AFW get together at Ian's - if that should come to pass. I've had difficulty lately shipping bottles out of the Country due to tightened restrictions in the name of Homeland Security. I doubt that will change anytime soon. :^(

Tom S

Lack, yes.

Oh dear. But I wil lbe showing up in California every 2 months or so... maybe then.

Mike

Mike Tommasi, Six Fours, France email link

formatting link

:> I agree with everything you wrote Tom. What these winemakers like :> I like wines that are "minimalist" but well made and that present no :> defects. As such, I would probably like yours, from your description

:> So, when do I get to taste yours?

: Next year at the AFW get together at Ian's - if that should come to pass. : I've had difficulty lately shipping bottles out of the Country due to : tightened restrictions in the name of Homeland Security. I doubt that will : change anytime soon. :^(

: Tom S

Tom,

refresh my mind again: What winery is yours?

Mark S

Château Burbank

My first commercial release (2002 Santa Barbara County Chardonnay) will be next month. I just took a bronze in the Orange County Fair with it, but I'm hoping to do better with the 2003 next year.

Tom S

Join the Discussion

Have something to add? Share your thoughts — no account required.

Didn't find your answer?

Ask the community — no account required