Re: TN: Pink Beaujolais

May 12, 2009 8 Replies


Dinner had an Asian theme, citrus/soy marinaded tuna steaks, kimchee,


> tofu hiyayakko, and broccoli, wine was not Asian, the 2008 JP Brun/
> Terres Dorees "Rose de Folie" Beaujolais. Pink Beaujolais isn't common
> around here, this is a nice straightahead rose. Strawberry and a
> little raspberry, a bit lean, good acidity, clean finish. I enjoy,
> though it's not really a wine that I would search for. Pleasant. B >
> Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent
> wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't
> drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no
> promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency. > �

Never seen one let alone had one. Sounds interesting but if I'm being honest, Gamay isn't one of my favorite varietals. I don't really like banana and I get a lot of banana in many Beaujolais.

Do you get banana from Gamay that doesn't use 71B yeast? I've gotten plenty of banana from DuBouef and other producers who used 71B, but never in a more artisanal producer who used indigenous yeasts. This is a fun wine , but not something that is compelling.

I never thought of it as a yeast issue but I think you're right. I do get a fruit-punch flavor from Gamay that I include in the "banana" group.

I get a fruit salad component as well. Even tropical fruits at times. For some this could be off putting for a red wine.

I'll echo Dale's comment that it's important to distinguish the artisanal producers in Beaujolais from the big commercial outfits. Not only does DuBoeuf use the dreaded 71B yeast but also a technique that he calls "thermovinification" that involves heating the must. Not to say that the wines are necessarily bad, but they are quite different from a Lapierre or Foillard Morgon.

Mark Lipton

I can't stand any of the DuBoeuf Beaujolais. Off putting smells and tastes in most of them.

I'll have to find a Lapierre or a Foillard Morgon. Since I never cared for Gamay based wines, I really never spent much time looking but I'll give them a try.

Bill, I just picked those two producers randomly, but there are now literally dozens of artisanal producers working in Beaujolais. Off the top of my head there are:

Marcel Lapierre Foillard Guy Breton Thevenet

[These above are Kermit Lynch's "Gang of Four" from Morgon]

Chermette/Dom. de Vissoux JP Brun/ Dom. de Terres Dorees Alain Coudert/Clos de Roilette Ch. Thivin George Descombes Diochon Desvignes Chignard

Of recent vintages, the 2007s are lighter and charming (to my tastes), whereas the '06s are deeper and more serious and the '05s are highly structured (and often not too charming right now).

Good luck, Bill, and let us know what you think when you open one.

Mark Lipton

Thanks for the info Mark. I've actually had the wines of Thivin, J P Brun, Chermette and Thevenet but it's been a while. When I was involved in the distributor we represented many of these wines. I generally did tastings and do recall the Chermette and Thevenet as being tasty for Gamay based wines. I'll call the warehouse and have them send me a mixed six pack and taste through them. Thanks again for the input.

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