Savennieres : Clos de Papillon

Nov 16, 2009 6 Replies
P

As part of a Loire Food matched with Loire wine supper party next weekend, I'm serving (among other things) Salmon with Beurre Blanc matched with Domaine Du Closel Clos de Papillon, 2004. A friend is bringing a Baumard Clos de Papillon (vintage unknown) to taste alongside.



Can the panel suggest what differences we might find?



The rest of the meal:



I have line up to display the versatility of Chenin:



Petillant Brut as Champagne lookalike Champalou Fondraux Vouvray 2002 with Butternut squash veloute Savennieres with Salmon & Beurre blanc Domaine des Forges, Chaume AC with Tarte Tatin



I did consider a Pork in cream sauce for mains with another Chenin style, but thought that would be overkill, so instead have gone for a coq au vin (made with a cabernet franc!) with a Closel Anjou Villages plus a Chinon Red from Charles Joguet which my friend is bringing. Lest it appear that I diverge from the Loire theme... the coq au vin recipe is from the patron of a chambre d'hôte in the Loire valley and is by far the best I have ever cooked or tasted!!



Cheese will be with residuals of the above plus a rather nice Sancerre to match the chevre.



pk



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R

So, care to share the recipe??

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P

Will do, when I dig it out later in the week.

pk

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M

First of all, it sounds like a great event, one at which I was present. To answer the question, most fans of Loire CB that I know prefer the Closel version to the Baumard in most years. '04 is a fine year for Savennieres, but it will all come down to what year the Baumard is. If it has some age on it and comes from a year like '96 (or even '97) it ought to be quite a different wine. In that event, it might even have an oxidative character to it that some might find offputting.

Mark Lipton

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S

In my somewhat limited experience, both Domaine du Closel and Baumard make very good Savennières. I like to think of Baumard like a more polished and refined wine, perhaps lacking a bit of that austerity that is typical in young Savennières.

So, to me, Closel is a bit more on the terroir while Baumard is a bit more commercial. But it is just my opinion based on three or four of their bottles.

Actually, I have both wines in my smallish cellar. Baumard is a 2001 and Closel is 2002 according to cellartracker. I am not in a hurry.

And tonight, I will be putting a tasting of different chenin blanc wines from the Loire, for fun with friends. There is one Savennières 2007 from Domaine de la Royauté in the tasting, along with a Vouvray from Huet, a Montlouis from Chidaine, a Saumur from La Tour Grise and a Chinon by Lenoir...

s.

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P

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The real trick is converting the cooking juices to a intense glossy sauce by reduction and thickening with Beurre manie

pk

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