TN: 2002 Telegramme (Brunier), 2002 Las Rocas Garnacha

Telegramme: This is the 2002 cuvee from the producers of Dom. Vieux Telegraphe, a declassified one-off produced after the fall rains ruined most of the crop just before harvest.

Very light color, and I could swear that it looked pale at the rim, but that could have been a trick of the light caused by the thick glasses it was served in (I was at a friend's house). Very promising, structured nose indicating tannin and solid complexity with some fruit. Thinnish mouthfeel followed by a good but not great, medium finish, with a very red fruit-forward flavor. The tannins hinted at by the nose were nowhere to be seen, and it lacked the complexity I had hoped for. That being said, this was a pleasant enough wine, but its not a bargain priced Vieux Telegraphe. I'd buy it again at $18-$20, but not at $29.

2002 Las Rocas: This was the polar opposite of the Telegramme, which was consumed at the same time. Very dark ruby/purple in the glass, with a massive fruit-bomb of a nose, with only subtle hints of complexity. This wine is somewhat surprising once sipped, because in the mouth you are met with firm but not harsh tannins, dark fruit, and a great oaky complexity with a medium finish. The fruit is there, but it is much better balanced and complex than the nose would indicate. Quite a surprise. A steal at $8.99.

- Chris

Reply to
Chris Sprague
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thanks, I wondered re this. Sometimes declassified wine can be a deal, sometimes not. :)

Reply to
DaleW

The part of the crop that it didn't ruin was the Grenache, planted on the plateau "La Crau," which apparently drained well enough to preserve the fruit. The Bruniers were so impressed with the quality of the Grenache that they were loathe to sell, but didn't want to call a 100% Grenache cuvee "Vieux Telegraphe," so instead chose the rather whimsical bottling you saw.

To me, it was a typical Grenache color, close to garnet.

Very promising,

What I got was classic, bright Grenache fruit in the nose and on the palate, decent backbone, but a somewhat clipped finish. I likened it to a decent Cotes du Rhone, but it lacked the depth or complexity of the usual VT bottlings. I think that I paid $22 for it at Premier Cru.

Mark Lipton

Reply to
Mark Lipton

If you have time, drop in on monday the 7th at the Sofitel in Marseille, for the official presentation of the 2003 vintage of Chateauneuf...

We are waiting for you Mark

Mike Tommasi, Six Fours, France email link

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Reply to
Mike Tommasi

Temptation, thy name is Tommasi! ;-) Would that I could, Mike, but I'm even farther from Marseille than usual at the moment. (In the back of my unruly mind, I hear a song from a late-'70s Aussie band, The Angels, "[Take Me Away to] Marseilles")

I'll eagerly await hearing your report, though. I'm leery of what to expect from that heat-soaked year. IIRC, though, Grenache is supposed to be drought- and heat-resistant, so maybe we'll get some Rayas-like wines.

Mark Lipton

Reply to
Mark Lipton

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