Jean has come down in favor of lighter-bodied, less structured, red-fruited Gamay-based wines, so many of the better Cru Beaujolais stay in the cellar for the nonce. Meanwhile, we still love our Gamay chez nous, so, with a dinner of grilled lamb, I opened:
2011 Alain Coudert (Clos de la Roilette) Cuvée Christal nose: cranberries, minerals palate: light, vivid acidity
Although Clos de la Roilette is one of the most ageworthy Cru Beaujolais that I know of, M. Coudert makes this cuvée from a parcel of vines located in the center of Fleurie AOC (the majority of his vines are in a section of Fleurie that abuts Moulin-a-Vent and shares its manganese-rich clay soil) and intends it for near-term drinking. This wine succeeds brilliantly in that regard and hits Jean's sweet spot.
Mark Lipton