Yesterday I took the train up to Croton for part 2 of a big look at the win es of Domaine Francois Cotat. 13 intrepid wine geeks (mostly NYC area, but one had driven from Ontario).John had set up 2 tables, with a nice spread o f cheeses and bread (including a great sourdough that a neighbor had made t hat day). Also some mousse, and I brought some charcuterie (lonza, pastirma , salami, headcheese) as well. As people gathered we tried some bubblies 1998 Huet Brut Petillant Vouvray Fresh, apple and dough, nice citrus kick. I’m shocked when told vin tage as I drank all mine years ago and thought mature, but this is apparent ly a new release. B+/B
2009 Pol Roger Brut Champagne Pear, brioche, and a little smoky note, elegant and defined. Fresh acids, l ively. B+/A- 2009 Francis Boulard “Les Rachais” Champagne Others liked more than me. I think this is non-dosage, and it comes across as too austere/severe for me. Those who love the style will probably like b etter. Nice bones underneath, though. B- After that we moved to the Sancerre blancs. A great selection, curated by S asha and John, in flights of 2 or 3. These were from the collection of SFJ oe, so a bittersweet edge to a great event. Flight #1- this flight was comparatively awkward 2010 Francois Cotat Les Monts Damnes Sancerre Lemon and lemon pith, minerally, but tight on palate. B 2010 Francois Cotat Les Culs de Beaujeu Sancerre Some thought bitter, but I enjoyed though in a grumpy stage. Nice wine wait ing to get out. B/B+ 2010 Francois Cotat La Grande Cote Sancerre Ripest, some RS, soft, a little heat. B- Flight #2 2009 Francois Cotat Les Monts Damnes Sancerre Mineral, lemon, slate I like except for a little heat (15%abv) B/B+ 2009 Francois Cotat La Grande Cote Sancerre Honey and grapefruit, a bit blowsy, least attractive for the younger wines to me, though some feel it will come into balance with time. B-/C+ Delia had made some nice savory pastries (spinach and mushroom, the spinach ones were basically spanakopita- very tasty) Flight #3- ah, this is more like it 2008 Francois Cotat Les Culs de Beaujeu Sancerre Slightly reduced at first, blows off/opens up, large framed but graceful. A pple and orange zest, long minerally finish. A- 2007 Francois Cotat Les Culs de Beaujeu Sancerre Fresh and chalky, good length. A-/B+ Flight #4 2007 Francois Cotat Les Monts Damnes Sancerre Great, smoke and wax over white fruits, floral. A- 2007 Francois Cotat La Grande Cote Sancerre Lemon, honey, waxy honeycomb. Tasty. A-/B+ Flight #5- ripeness showing again 2006 Francois Cotat Les Monts Damnes Sancerre Lightly corked 2006 Francois Cotat Les Culs de Beaujeu Sancerre Some heat, a little honey and wax, good core though. B 2006 Francois Cotat La Grande Cote Sancerre Again some heat, but that’s only thing I can read, my note says som ething like espresso, which would be a weird descriptor for Sancerre and I ’m sure that isn’t it. Expansive? B anyway Flight #6 - this was rough (as expected) 2003 Francois Cotat Les Monts Damnes Sancerre This was the drinkable one to me (others disagreed). Fresca, herbs, but a l ittle short B- 2003 Francois Cotat Les Culs de Beaujeu Sancerre This had some spritz (secondary fermentation?), overripe melon, clunky. Lik e someone poured vinho verde into a fat sweet Chard. C+/C 2003 Francois Cotat La Grande Cote Sancerre Whoa, this was unpleasant. Tasted like fruit cocktail (canned) that had bee n opened and left in a hot kitchen for a week. D John decided this called for a Champagne intermezzo NV Henri Giraud “Code Noir” Champagne This this is BdN. Tart but heavy, others liked more. B- NV Henri Giraud’s “Fut de Chene”Champagne Woody, apple and pear fruit, vanilla. People who liked oaked Champagne will like more. More experienced people predicted it would absorb the oak with time, but not my preferred style. But well done. B Flight #7- a nice view (the ‘02s) as to what the ripe vintage Cotat s can turn into 2002 Francois Cotat Les Monts Damnes (Sancerre not listed, denied appellati on) Just a touch of sugar remaining, wax and apple, mature. B/B+ 2002 Francois Cotat Les Culs de Beaujeu (Sancerre not listed, denied appell ation) Snappy, pretty, honey and citrus, long. A-/B+ 2000 Francois Cotat Les Monts Damnes Sancerre Great showing from an (I think) unheralded vintage. Young, wax and honey, f resh fruit. A- On to the roses. John served a chicken and sausage stew that went beautiful ly (not what I would have thought of, but it worked) Flight #8 2011 Francois Cotat Chavignol Sancerre Rose Floral, ripe, berries. B+ 2010 Francois Cotat Chavignol Sancerre Rose Ripe, strawberry and herb, citrus. B 2009 Francois Cotat Chavignol Sancerre Rose Dusty, floral, soft for now. B Flight #9 2005 Francois Cotat Chavignol Rose Sprightly, ripe (some found hot, I didn’t), chalky minerality, long . A- 2001 Francois Cotat Chavignol Rose Classic, elegant and long, very fresh at 16! A-/B+ Flight #10 1996 Francois Cotat “Monts Damnes Cuvee Speciale” Sec-tendre, great nervy acids, lovely with the sugar almost all absorbed. A-/B+ Fun night. Clear lesson- either buy F. Cotat in leaner years, and/or buy ri pe years and put away for 15 years. Night wasn’t quite over, the bonus wines
1970 Sterling Cabernet Sauvignon Red fruited, herbs tangy acids, some thought simple but I liked, with some air it added some smoky notes. Solid old fashioned CalCab. B+ 1974 Raymond Cabernet Sauvignon Blacker fruit, but nose has a weird funky note that doesn’t come ac ross to me as TCA but better noses declare it corked. 1993 Huet “Cuvee Constance” Vouvray This is a rarity (apparently released in UK, then domaine decided not Const ance quality, so rest released as Le Haut Lieu 1er Trie). Thought a good fi t for a crowd of Loire fans. Definitely not the richness/sweetness of other Constances, but very tasty- electric acids, honey and lemon, flower and so il notes. Very fun. B+/A- Fun night, long night, very nice to have Betsy come pick me up. Kudos to Jo hn and Sasha for organizing, and to a fun crew for thoughtful comments (oft en disagreeing!) and good company Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C drinkable. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a p arty where it was only choice.Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivi ty, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.