TN: Allegrini, modern Languedoc, and a Huet from a tough year

Sep 23, 2005 4 Replies

A couple of rather modern European red wines over last couple days. Wednesday it was just David and me, I threw some (pre-cooked) Niman Ranch porkribs on the grill, along with corn. A green bean/mushroom sauté and some poblano peppers completed the meal. Lucy the Basset Hound managed to get up on outside table and snag some food - imagine her surprise when AFTER gulping down half a pepper she learned that these were rather spicy (much more so than most poblanos, maybe I'm wrong re variety). A puzzled looking dog sat in the grass pawing at her face as I tried two wines with dinner:


2000 Domaine de Montpezat "Les Enclos" Merlot Prestige (Vin de Pays d'Oc) OK, you think with a non-historic variety for the Languedoc and a term like Prestige I'm going to say this is internationalized swill. Well, it's pretty international, but I wouldn't call it swill. I had opened night before and had a glass as I came home from a meeting. A pleasant surprise- yes , there's some vanilla/toasty oak, but over a base of structured black plum fruit that is ripe but not overripe. Medium ripe tannins, a sweet edge to the fruit. A wine that I find drinkable and which would be popular with the ripe Shiraz crowd, might be worth getting more for a big party. The downside is that after being open about 20 hours (in fridge), it was pretty badly tired/oxidized. B-

So I opened a 1999 Allegrini Palazzo della Torre. Tannins and oak have both integrated nicely, the oak overlaying rich powerful black fruit with a mocha edge. Some rose petal notes along with some forest floor. Very tasty for a $13 wine. Compared to the Languedoc it shows very well, pairing nicely with some burgers Thursday. Seems a little more straightforward than on first night, but not tired or oxidized. B++



Also tried, as an accompaniment while watching a rough cut of a documentary (interview with me in it, damn the camera does add 10 pounds!), a half-bottle of the 2004 Huet "le Haut Lieu" Vouvray Sec. I approach this with some trepidation after comments about how Chenin Blanc fared in the rains of 2004. But initial impression is pretty good



- there's nice spiced apple-pie fruit, with little nuances of pear and apricot. Seems almost off-dry, this isn't bone-dry like a Savennieres, more sec-tendre, but there's enough snappy acidity to compensate for any sugar (NB: I almost always buy demi-sec Vouvray, so I don't know what I'm talking about or if this is normal for Huet secs). I don't know enough to pinpoint any signs of dilution , except the finish seems far shorter/thinner than I expect from Huet. Still, a pretty decent effort if this is a tough vintage. B


Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.



Thanks for the notes, Dale. I've got a couple bottles of this in the cellar -- sounds like it's time to start pulling them out. IIRC, I also have a bottle of Allegrini's "La Grola" from the same year. It should make for an interesting comparison.

Mark Lipton

Mark, if you do taste the La Grola I'd be much interested in your thoughts.... I bought 6 bottles of the 99 and 6 of the 00 in the Eurocave, having bought them with the impression that they were more ageworthy. I hadn't expected to open 'em before 2010, but may need to rethink.

Cheers, Gary

The Palazzo is a big favorite around here. We're on our second case of

2000. I have one bottle of '97 Palazzo and one bottle of '97 La Grola remaining in the cellar, but I'm having a hard time parting with them. Wish I'd bought a lot more, though these last two are probably peaking about now.

JJ

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