TN: Another bday dinner for Dave, '88 Cantemerle and a Bual

Aug 28, 2009 2 Replies

So David's 21st was last week, as Betsy was gone to Vermont we had a small celebration with presents and an '88 Burg the weekend before. But one present was dinner at a restaurant of his choice, and last night was the night. He chose Calle Ocho on Upper West Side, and we took him and a friend for dinner. Corkage was a reasonable $10, so I carried a bottle of Bordeaux, knowing that it wasn't the most wine friendly menu.



I started with a sweet corn empanada with goat cheese and a tomato salad, followed by Uruguayan filet with braised onions and red wine sauce on a Cabrales tart. I also sampled crab meat tortillas, calamari, and "duck two ways" (breast and then confit/lentil/plantain salad), hanger steak, spinach, and green/sweet plantains. Pretty good food.



Wine was the 1988 Ch. Cantemerle (Haut-Medoc). Good fill and a good showing. Red and black plum fruit, a little leather, tobacco, and a big gravelly earth bite to the finish. A bit of slightly raspy tannin still remaining, fairly acidic, good length. I'd have guessed Graves blind I think. Good showing for a fairly cheap Bordeaux, and fun to share a birthyear wine with Dave. B+ NB probably someone with no sentimentality would give a B :)



We skipped dessert, but the ladies got tea, while Dave got a Laphroaig



15 Year (he's spent last 2 years in Scotland). Didn't want him drinking alone, so I had a glass of the Cossart Gordon 10 Year Bual. I'm not a big Madeira drinker, but enjoyed this. Raisiny, with a little mocha note and a touch of pecan nuttiness. Fairly sweet, but not cloying. I don't mind oxidative notes in sweet wines. B????


Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency. 



 

Nice notes, Dale, and belated congrats to David!

In your terminology, Dale, Cantemerle to me is a wine that consistently "punches above it weight." And '88 to me is a very good, underrated year in the Medoc.

How are you on Coulee de Serrant? ;-) I haven't had enough Madeira to have a formed an opinion one way or another.

Mark Lipton

Indeed, Cantemerle is often an overachiever (I think it's just outside Margaux, and tends to do well if that commune does)

As to the Joly wines, I've only had a few CdS. One pretty nice in a oxidative sort of way, 2 close to undrinkable. Not sweet enough for me! I know Ian likes them, but as far as I'm concerned, only on someone else's dime

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