Mark and Jean Lipton were in town, and Betsy and I were delighted to join them for dinner. A planned slight detour by Lincoln Center turned into a minor traffic nightmare, so we were a bit late getting to Cendrillon in SoHo. We arrived to find Mark, Jean, the real Jay Miller, and the renowned SFJoe (who I'd never met before) patiently waiting.
A nice assortment of wines followed. I was a tad out of sorts, and didn't take notes at the time, but following are some impressions. I will say the food at Cendrillon was excellent. I had an extraordinary goat curry with chutney and rice pancakes, followed by a tasty oxtail dish with an unusual fermented shrimp paste. Betsy had the lumpia, which I thought was like an egg roll (based on my one previous Filipino meal), but was more of a big wrap filled with veggies. Her main was very good shortribs with an excellent sauce. We brought most of our wines, but list was VERY interesting and well-priced for NY.
The white wines:
1964 Huet Vouvray Sec This was actually a petillant, though label said Sec not Brut. Some petillance remaining, baked apples and lemon, good length, very interesting wine. B+/B1991 Alzinger "Durnsteiner Hollerin" Riesling Smaragd I found this a delightful surprise. From an "off" vintage, proof that good producers make good wine. In this case very good wine. Lighter than any Wachau Smaragd I've run across, sprightly wine with apple, peach, and ginger flavors. Delicate hints of petrol, though on a revisit later in night that was even less apparent. I quite enjoyed this. B+/A-
1998 Franz Hirtzberger "Singerriedel" Riesling Smaragd Much bigger Riesling. Dry, but with a ripe fruit profile. Peach, honey, apricot. Some earth and smoke notes. Powerful, good, but I think I preferred the Alzinger from a lesser vintage overall. B+2002 Puffeney Arbois Savagnin Wild nose that reminds me of dried mushrooms with a hint of overripe sheeps cheese, not quite like anything I ever smelled before. Palate is much more conventional, rather easy drinking, though edging on hot. I think others liked more than I did, I found the nose intriguing, but not inviting. To be a true geek maybe one has to learn to love oddball wines like this (and Vin Jaune, and obscure Sherries), but I'll just remain a bystander. Nice to watch, but not my fave to drink. B-/C+
1996 Soucherie "Clos des Perrieres" Savennieres My other contribution. Very muted at first, almost dilute. Picks up weight and flavor with time. Apple, wax, and lemon rind, good acidity, nice wine. I like, but don't find the depth I had in '96 Closel or even the regular Baumard (good bottles). BThe red wines
1978 Haut-Bailly I think this is the 3rd time I've had one of these from Jay's stash. Jay thinks this bottle substandard, but I quite enjoyed (especially at end of evening). Not at all a blockbuster, some might find thin, but I found elegant and balanced. Good acidity, bright red-toned fruit, lots of cedar and tobacco aromas. Maybe could use a lighter more density and length, but a very nice wine with food. B+1998 Drouhin "Clos des Chenes" Volnay This is showing a tad rough and coarse right now. Big, good dark berry fruit, high acidity, some tannins. I think this is probably the best wine we had this night, but really not ready, and less fun to taste now. Everyone keeps saying the '98s are drinking well, but I keep thinking they need more time. This night this one is a B/B-. Bet in
5-10 I'll be thinking a variance on an A.1998 Grivot Vosne-Romanee OK, so here is a '98 that is drinking ok. Clean cherry fruit, a little hint of kirsch (though not at all overripe), some spice. Not a big wine, but a nice dinner companion. B/B+
1997 Ogier Cote-Rotie I think I liked this more than others. Friendly puppy dog of a Northern Rhone, round blackberry and cherry fruit, some smoked meat and floral notes. Ferric/mineral edge on finish, very good. B+/A-Fun night, even if I was beat. Nice to see Mark, Jean, and Jay again, good to meet Joe. I liked lots of the wines, and loved the food. The owner/chef joined us for a few tastes, and there was no corkage charge on the bill. Even with a lavish tip it was a fairly cheap evening. I'll be back to the restaurant (as I noted, nice list).
Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.