The background:Ch. Simard is a late release St.-Émilion, apparently large production as it appears everywhere about 12 years after the vintage (it's very popular on restaurant lists, where markups on this $20-25 wine are usually outrageous). I was very unimpressed with the 1988 (more exactly, I referred to it as "really crappy"), and bottles of the '89 ranged between flawed and not-bad-for-$22. Decided I did not want to try the 1990.
Then a tasting group in Atlanta put up notes on eBob re a large 1990 blind horizontal where the 1990 Simard came in second (out of 15 or so wines, including some big names like LLC, Lynch, Poyferre, Angelus). Shock and disbelief from everyone, to the point where they did a second blind tasting. 2 bottles of Simard showed well (though differently) against decent classed growth competition. Frank, a guy I know through a tasting group, posted shock- he had bought 2 bottles, opened one, and poured down the drain as worst Bordeaux he'd tasted. Volunteered to give up his other bottle. I still wasn't ready to buy Simard, but these are all experienced tasters, the disparities intrigued me, so I contacted Frank and we agreed to a trade for a '98 La Gardine CdP.
Life intervened, and I didn't see Frank for a while. But at last month's Montiano vertical we finally did the trade. The Simard has sat staring balefully at me for a couple of weeks, last night I finally got the nerve to open. Betsy made steaks with an ersatz (but damn tasty!) Bordelaise sauce from a Pierre Franey book, with braised endive and potatoes.
1990 Ch. Simard (St. Émilion). A little sediment, less than some other recent
1990 rightbankers. Comes across as a little acidic, maybe even a hint of VA. But 20 minutes in decanter it looses any hint of VA, and acidity seems quite integrated. Pretty good black plum and dark berry fruit. Some cedary oak, a little bit of a cigarbox note. Nice match with the steak, stands up ok. Very light tannins, a bit of an earthy note evolves as wine is on table. Pretty nice wine, though a short finish detracts from my enthusiasm. B/B+ on my easy scale
Even the Atlanta group had each bottle of this show dramatically differently. Knowing nothing of the chateau or its methods or storage, I'm not sure what accounts for this bottle variation. A lot of people have spent a lot of time joking re Simard, but most haven't actually tasted the '90 Simard. I certainly wouldn't serve this wine as centerpiece of a meal, without a ready backup- bottle variation seems rampant. But I might actually pick up a couple more (and suffer the slings and arrows from geekdom). I can only base on the bottle I've had. But I would encourage folks to try one (or better yet, insert one into a blind tasting) before making up their minds. Dale
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