Last night I came home to find a bunch of littleneck clams in the sink. Seemed like a good time to bring up the 1997 Luneau-Papin "L d'Or " Muscadet. Beautiful crushed clamshell/mineral nose, light but clear green apple and citrus fruit. Acidity is bright but not harsh, finish has a nutty edge to it - the only real sign of age. The meal turned out to be a clam chowder with leeks and bok choy (and a little tomato paste and hot pepper), and the wine wasn't really a perfect match, but it did ok. This is still available at Chambers Street and I'll get more next time I'm in, but next time the shellfish are going in straight. B+
Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.