TN: Nenin, roses, and a very good 2003 Loire

Jun 26, 2005 2 Replies

Friday with grilled porterhouses, corn, salad, and brown rice, the 1994 Ch. Talbot (St. Julien). Some cassis and black plum fruit, lots of cedary oak. Some rather hard/spiky tannins (more than I've noticed in previous bottles). This is ok as a steak wine, but by the time the tannins really recede I doubt there's much in the way of fruit left here. B



Saturday some friends were moving (just in-town). Last wee, , I reluctantly offered my help. Seeing the forecast was for 90s, I was quite relieved to find they had booked professional movers. But they invited us (and a few others) for dinner and a tour of the house. So we loaded up some wine and glasses and headed over. Nice huge old place, where we sipped:


2004 Pepiere Muscadet I've posted enough notes about this. Just stunning value at under $10. B+/A-


2003 Catherine and Pierre Breton "Les Galichets" Bourgueil You know, it's not "correct" to say this (June is officially "Diss the



2003 vintage across Europe" month), but I think I like this better than previous vintages. Really rich cherry & redcurrant fruit, hint of earth, nice wine, but it's the aromatic herb notes that make it quite interesting. Despite the digits on the label there's plenty of acidity, a nice wine that is perfect served chilled on a hot night. B+/A-


2004 La Brasserie Rosé This Vin de Pays, on the other hand, sucked. Canned cherry soda flavors, short finish, run away. C-


1999 Ch. Nenin (Pomerol) I had this with the skirt steak. I'd given it a couple hours of air. Medium-bodied, but with a deep Pomerol richness to the black plum and blackberry fruit. Some oak, but more dominated by secondary notes of leadpencil and coffee. I don't think this is a Pomerol for the ages, but drinking well now. A-


2003 Domaine de la Janasse Côtes du Rhône Rosé Someone else had brought this rosé. Rather simple, though a big improvement on the VdP. Easy cherry/strawberry fruit, a little flabby, hint of sweetness. B-



NV Cristalino cava Always a QPR favorite. Light, crisp, and straightforward. B (the Janasse CdR rosé was helped by adding a little cava- B for the cocktail).



Nice evening in a nice new old place.



Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency



[] ] ] 2003 Catherine and Pierre Breton "Les Galichets" Bourgueil ] You know, it's not "correct" to say this (June is officially "Diss the ] 2003 vintage across Europe" month), but I think I like this better than ] previous vintages. Really rich cherry & redcurrant fruit, hint of ] earth, nice wine, but it's the aromatic herb notes that make it quite ] interesting. Despite the digits on the label there's plenty of acidity, ] a nice wine that is perfect served chilled on a hot night. B+/A- ] []

Thanks as always for the notes, Dale. Always a pleasure to read.

As chance would have it we had a very cheap 03 Bourgueil, Dom Caudrey a couple of days ago. Local supermarket moving it out at 3 EU/bt, so it seemed worth a try. I'll be going back for more -- this also had decent acidity but packed with fruit. We actually had it with some pan fried fish, also chilled, it was very satisfactory at the price. Atypical but still with nice varietal character.

03 may be worth dissing in many places, but there are some interesting things coming out of Touraine/Anjou. And great opportunities for bottom feeding! :)

-E

Emery, Lucky dog- nothing drinkable at 3 Euros here, even with the dollar!

I can't say I'm a fan of most European '03s, as I tend to value typicity, and record-breaking heat is by definition atypical. But I do think that : a) some producers are just so good they can make magic despite hard weather b) some areas which sometimes have trouble achieving ripeness are obviously helped by extra heat. So far in the Loire, I've done far better with '03 reds than whites.

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