Source: San Fransisco Chronicle
US Davis study challenges classic wine-cheese pairings (June 2005)
For many people, a bottle of red wine and a platter of good cheese virtually guarantee pleasure ahead. But according to new research conducted at the University of California at Davis, that time-tested marriage may be on the skids.
Graduate student Berenice Madrigal has spent the past year investigating what sound like the makings of a great party: eight red wines, eight cheeses and what happens when you serve them together.
Thinking of purchasing a nice chunk of cheddar to show off a favorite red wine from your cellar? Madrigal's study, undertaken for her master's degree in viticulture and enology, suggests that you might want to reconsider that plan.
"Our definition of a good pairing was that the two enhance each other," says Hildegarde Heymann, professor of sensory science in Davis' viticulture and enology department and Madrigal's adviser. "Our work shows this is probably not true very often."
Madrigal, a petite, soft-spoken 27-year-old from Mexico City, has a degree in food chemistry from the National Autonomous University of Mexico and a fondness for cow's-milk Mimolette. But it was Heymann who steered Madrigal to cheese as a thesis topic, a continuation of the professor's research into the sensory analysis of wine with food. Cheese made a suitable subject for exploration because the department has no kitchen.
To Heymann's surprise, few sensory scientists had analyzed the presumed affinity of wine and cheese. A review of the literature turned up almost nothing. A Swedish scientist, Tobias Nygren, had looked at white wine with blue cheese -- the cheese mutes white wine flavors, he found -- but no one apparently had looked methodically at the intersection of red wine and cheese.
Madrigal's first task was to assemble and train a tasting panel, volunteers -- mostly fellow students -- who would be taught to recognize various attributes in wine and to use identical language in describing them. For two weeks, the tasters met every day to master the sensory meaning of 20 common wine descriptors from bell pepper and berry to astringent and bitter.
Next they evaluated, tasting blind, the eight wines Madrigal had selected: two bottles each of Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah. In an effort to get wines of differing styles, Madrigal had chosen a low-priced and high-priced wine for each varietal pair. Tasters rated each sample on a
1-to- 10 scale for every attribute. Then Madrigal juggled the sample order and repeated the tasting twice to verify her tasters' consistency.
Following an intensive day of research at Corti Brothers, the Sacramento fine-foods store, Madrigal settled on eight types: two hard cheeses (Emmental and Gruyere), two cheddars (from Vermont and New York), two soft cheeses (mozzarella and Teleme) and two blues (Gorgonzola and Stilton). Heymann had suggested limiting the samples to cow's milk cheeses so the analysis didn't get even more complicated.
Over sessions that lasted three months, the same trained team of panelists -- six men and five women -- tasted each wine with each cheese, then scored the wines on the same 20 attributes they had evaluated before. Then Madrigal switched the tasting order, and the panelists repeated the task twice.
Months of analysis later, Madrigal and Heymann had their results, captured in a flurry of colorful spider graphs and multidimensional plots that the average wine lover would be hard-pressed to decipher. But to cut to the chase, their conclusions may not sit well with wine and cheese fans.
In virtually every case, cheese diminished everything the wine had to say. It muted both desirable traits like berry character and less desirable traits like astringency and bell pepper. It was an equal-opportunity silencer, exhibiting largely the same effect on each varietal, pricey and not.
From mild Teleme to pungent Gorgonzola, the cheeses made every wine taste less oaky, less berry-like, less sour. The two blues had slightly more impact on the wines than the two soft cheeses, but the differences were insignificant for almost every trait.
"The popular press tells us it should have gone the other way," says Heymann, meaning that cheese would enhance the wines. "We would have assumed that for at least one cheese and one wine, we would have a hit."
The one attribute that cheese seemed to accentuate in red wine was butteriness, a quality more often associated with malolactic Chardonnays than with reds. But with every other wine trait, cheese of every sort activated the mute button, a result Heymann can't easily explain.
"The decrease of astringency makes sense because you have a coating of the palate (with cheese)," says the professor. "All you need is a coating between the mucous membranes and astringent compounds and you diminish astringency. That is the one effect I would say is a real effect."
The other outcomes -- that cheese diminished fruitiness, oakiness or spiciness -- may be what Heymann call a cognitive effect. In other words, it's in our heads. We expect that result, so we find that result. Although she hasn't devised a way to tease apart the impact of cognition, or expectation, she suspects it's at the root of many vaunted wine-and-cheese marriages.
"My 'take home' is, you shouldn't worry about which wine you have with which cheese," says Heymann. "Have the wine you love with the cheese you love. " If most cheeses affect most red wines in a similar way, by turning down the volume, it may be pointless to keep looking for a match that soars.
Daniel Baron, winemaker at Silver Oak Wine Cellars in Oakville, says his extensive if informal research doesn't support the UC Davis team's conclusions. A cheese enthusiast, Baron says he has invested a lot of time hunting for cheeses that would complement his famed Cabernet Sauvignons.
"It's been a long journey," says the winemaker, "but in my experience, the old rules of wine and cheese pairing hold true."
For him, that means no blue cheese ("It really brings out the bitterness in a red wine"), no triple-cream cheeses ("iffy") and a distinct preference for well-aged cow's and sheep's milk cheeses such as aged Gouda, Vella Dry Jack and Manchego -- cheeses that he finds not just tolerable with his wine but flattering.
Other tasters who, like Baron, have experienced a ghastly clash between dry red wine and pungent blue cheese may suspect that something physiological is to blame. As for the utter rightness on the tongue of Vella Dry Jack and Silver Oak Cabernet -- how does Heymann explain that?
"There's that saying, 'Perception is reality,' " says the professor. "If you perceive that the wine is better with the cheese, then it is. What's happening in your head is no less real than what's happening on your palate, but it's probably different."