TN Ridge 1973 California Cabernet Sauvignon, Monte Bello

Feb 09, 2009 3 Replies

The wine was Ridge 1973 California Cabernet Sauvignon, Monte Bello, estate grown, bottled Oct. 1975, 12.8% alcohol by volume. Note the label name for Monte Bello wines is somewhat different for more recent vintages. The wine was bought shortly after release and properly stored by me. The fill was very low neck, and there were no cork or other issues. The cork still sealed well and came out in one piece.



The wine is still very deep in color and you need a bright light to notice a little age showing around the rim. The wine is fully mature, but likely will hold fairly well for at least several more years. The bouquet and taste both are very intense and complex, and the finish is very long. There is enough acid. Both bouquet and taste are a complex mix of cassis and mixed dark stone fruit with hints of spice and herbs. The texture has a velvet-like quality, the sort of thing Broadbent has described as an iron fist in a velvet glove. It reminds me more of a Ch. Petrus than Ch. Latour in this respect, although the taste and bouquet are typical Cabernet Sauvignon. Many of the best mountain CSs in California, including most Ridge, are more Latour like than Petrus like in texture to me. And the alcohol content is only



12.8%, rather unusual for 70s top CSs. Some from that era were 14% and even more.

Thanks for the fascinating note. '73 was an underrated year in CA, having been eclipsed by '74 in hype, but my experience (and that of a few others I know) is that the '73s have outlived the more flamboyant '74s (not to mention many other years). I am a bit surprised about your comment re the alcohol levels, as my recollection is that 12-13% ABV was more or less the norm back then. 14% was considered OTT (and of course occasioned a higher tax) and normally seen only in things like "late harvest" Zins and the wines of Ken Burnap and Dr. David Bruce.

Mark Lipton

I had especially Dr David Bruce's CS in mind. One monster he made in the 70s (was it 74) had a review suggesting it was perfect for serving with mastedon steak! But it paled compared with some dry Rieslings he made that well exceeded 16% alcohol by volume. I tasted one example that nearly burned your mouth and throat with both extremely high alcohol and acid. Monterey Peninsula Winery( there was another winery with a very similar name) made some CS that was extremely strong in every way, but their late harvest Zinfandel could compete even with the likes of David Bruce in alcohol content. Martin Ray made some very big CSs, but the 1968 has only 13% alcohol by volume. However it had a huge amount of extract, tannin, and acid and did not come around for many years. Of course the quality of Martin Ray's wines varied greatly from bad to outstanding( I am speaking of the man Martin Ray and not a winery with his name that appeared after his death).

Ridge also made a 1973 Monte Bello estate Zinfandel. I still have one bottle. It has only 12.6 alcohol by volume and is a better match for many foods than are many Zinfandels. However Ridge has made their share of very powerful Zinfandel from other locations. The 1972 Lodi Essence was very sweet and port-like. I still have a bottle. A detailed description by P.D. is given on the back label. This wine is not fortified. It has 14.4% plus or minus 0.2% alcohol by volume. The total acidity is 0.78% as tartaric. Reducing sugar is 6.7% (4.9% fructose, 1.8% glucose). It is described as being made from vine- shriveled grapes from Buena Vista Vineyard. It still was drinking well several years ago, and it would not surprise me if it still is holding fairly well.

Yes, those days of California winemaking feel these days like the Wild West, with those hoary characters like the Dr. Bruce of old, Martin Ray, Joe Swan and Joe Heitz plying their trade in swing-or-miss fashion. I also have very fond memories of the Monterey Peninsula winery's '78 Zinfandel, which we found on sale in a little store on Manhattan in '87 for a very reasonable price and bought out their stock (some 8 bottles or so) over the course of a winter. The other winery you're thinking of is probably The Monterey Vineyard, with the symbol of a white bird (a seagull?) on the label.

Nostalgically yours, Mark Lipton

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