This weekend, Jean opened up several bottles of '88 Burgundy that she had acquired earlier this year at auction. The lineup was:
Robert Chevillon NSG "Vaucrains" Joseph Roty Gevrey-Chambertin "Fontenys" Faiveley Chambertin-Clos be Beze Dujac Clos de la Roche Roty Mazy-Chambertin
All of the wines were opened and aerated a half hour prior to serving. The foods we had to accompany them were a sauteed mushroom medley on toast and smoked quail stuffed with a cornbread-andouille stuffing. There were also a few cheeses and some smoked reindeer courtesy of one of our guests (a Finn). Because of my duties preparing food and watching baby, I didn't have a chance to take detailed notes. What follows are just some general impressions:
All of the wines were quite youthful. The 1ers were even quite primary in their flavors.
The Roty Fontenys tasted slightly corked to me, though no one else agreed.
The Dujac Clos de la Roche was the unanimous WOTN. It was gorgeously perfumed with a floral nose, light and delicate on the palate but with plenty of strawberryish fruit and perfect balance. Wow!
The Roty wines, even in the presence of other Burgs and even with food, stood out as being quite acidic. Another 5 years in bottle might benefit them.
Our friend Chris, who dislikes Pinot Noir because it tastes like grape juice to her, liked all of the wines except the Chevillon (which tasted like Pinot Noir to her).
Overall, this was a very educational experience, as for many of us it was our first serious encounter with aged Grand Cru Burgundy. Most of us left the tasting as converts.
Mark Lipton