TN Zierfandler2006, Weingut Stadlmann (Austria)

The Zierfandler 2006 is made by Johann Stadlmann VII. It is a Qualitatswein Trocken LW 683/07. It comes from the Traiskirchen in the Thermen region of Austria. The estate has been in the same family since 1780. It was imported by Frederik Wildmann & Sons of New York.

The back label states that Zierfandler is one of the oldest and most unique varietals of Austria. It is described as full bodied and dominated by fruity acidity with quince and citrus aromas. It is suggested as perfect with intensely flavored, spicy food such as Pan Asian and Nuevo Latino. The description of the web site where I bought the wine claims that there are only 100 - 200 ha of these grapes planted in the world.

The color was very light yellow. There is considerable bouquet, and the description quoted from the label seems as good as any. Despite being a trocken that is completely dry with considerable acidity, the body is fairly full and rounded enough so that it drinks very well. I doubt if it would gain much from more age. I rather liked the wine, and the price was right at US$ 12 marked down from $ 16. I hope Parker does not decide he likes Zierfandler, or the price likely will go up greatly because so little is produced.

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Interesting note. For the record, the resemblance in names between Zierfandler and Zinfandel is no accident. It is believed that Zinfandel arrived in the US in a shipment of grape vines from Vienna to Long Island in 1829. Somehow, labels got mixed up and the Crljenac Kastelanski from Croatia got labeled as "Black Zinfardel of Hungary," probably in reference to the name Zierfandler which is a white grape. The rest, as they say, is history.

Mark Lipton

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Mark Lipton

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