I have been attempting to write something up which describes the different classifications of Austrian wine. I was hoping that those of you who know this stuff could make sure I have not gone wrong anywhere, and that those of you who don't know this stuff could tell me if this is at all clear. The goal would be to satisfy both parties. I know this is kind of long, so I'm putting out a BIG thanks to anyone who tosses in their two cents here!
e. winemonger __________________________________
TYPES OF WINES
These categories represent the "quality designations" of Austrian wine. They go from Tafelwein to Trockenbeerenauslese, with many in between.
The amount of must sugar in percent of weight in a wine is measured in units called KMW (Klosterneuburger Mostwaage) and the Austrians have strict minimums and maximums for each category of wine. Those more familiar with the Öchsle scale can get a close conversion by multiplying the KMW by 5.
The basic quality designations followed in Austria are Tafelwein, Landwein, Qualitätswein, Kabinett, and Prädikatswein (which includes Spätlese, Auslese, Beerenauslese, and Trockenbeerenauslese)
TAFELWEIN is basically "table wine." It has at least 10.6° KMW.
LANDWEIN is "land wine." Usually served as the house wine. It is classed under the general category of Tafelwein, but is required to show its region of origin on the label. The minimum is 14° KMW.
QUALITÄTSWEIN (or "quality wine") Technically, this wine is of a "quality" just above the table or land wine, but that doesn't mean they can't be great. They have a minimum of 15° KMW, and the label must go one step further than Landwein and show its specific wine growing area. (Austria has 4 main wine growing regions, which are then divided into 19 recognized wine growing areas.)
KÄBINETT: This goes under the broader category of Qualitätswein, but must have a minimum of 17° KMW, a maximum alcohol by volume of 13%, and a maximum residual sugar level of 9 g/l
PRÄDIKATSWEIN: This is the category which encompasses Spätlese, Auslese, Beerenauslese and Trockenbeerenauslese, which each have their own minimum and maximum KMW levels.
SPÄTLESE: This category has a minimum of 19° KMW, and the addition of grape must for sweetening is not permitted (as it is in Germany.) These wines may be sold after March 1, while the other Prädikatsweins cannot be sold until after May 1st.
AUSLESE: The word means "selection" in German, and it's used in the trade to describe the perfectly ripened grapes that are hand selected and pressed separately from the other grapes. This one is a little bit sweet, but can still be enjoyed as a "drinking" wine. Minimum of
21° KMW.
BEERENAUSLESE: "Selected berries." The grapes are left to ripen even longer than in any previous category, and so have even more residual sugar. Add to that some mold known as "noble rot" (botrytis cinerea), which causes the grapes to shrivel and concentrate even more, and we have moved into the realm of dessert wines. The minimum KMW is 25°. You will often see this abbreviated as "BA."
EISWEIN (Ice Wine): These wines are made from grapes left on the vine until the cold weather and frosts arrive. They must be picked at night to insure that the temperature remains below freezing until the grapes are harvested and pressed. In this way, the water left in the grape is frozen, so only the most concentrated of flavors comes out. It has a minimum 25° KMW.
SHILFWEIN: Also known as Strohwein, it is a method of making dessert wines. The grapes are harvested late and then air dried on straw or reed mats for at least three months to concentrate their flavor. In the Burgenland region, the mats are made from the reeds which grow along the edges of the Neusidler lake. Some vintners then lay these mats out on shelves in long, long, football field length tunnels constructed from wood and thick plastic sheeting. This both protects the grapes from predators and acts as a kind of greenhouse. Minimum of 25° KMW.
RUSTER AUSBRUCH: This refers to a method of making dessert wine from grapes affected by noble rot, and can only come from around the town of Rust. The name of the town is linked to the method of production called ‘ausbruch", which originally came from Hungary where it is used in the making of Tokaji. The minimum for an Ausbruch is 27° KMW.
TROCKENBEERENAUSLESE: The sweetest of the sweets, also called TBA. These "dry selected berries" (that's what the word means) are left on the vine until they are, you guessed it, pretty much dried out and have gone through a big bout of noble rot. This makes them very concentrated and results in some pretty spectacular dessert wines. The minimum level is 30° KMW, if that gives you an indication of just how sweet this baby is.
OTHER DRY WINE CLASSIFICATIONS: In the Wachau region, a local association called VINEA WACHAU NOBILIS DISTRICTUS put their wines into three different classifications: Steinfeder, Federspiel, and Smaragd.
STEINFEDER.: The name comes from the grass which grows on the steep hillsides here, and it is the first of the three quality classifications for wine in the Wachau. However, you shouldn't think that a Steinfeder is "worse" than a Federspiel: it's just different. It's picked at a different point in the harvest and it has a different style than the following wines. A Steinfeder is, for example, the perfect wine for a hot summer afternoon when you just want something simple to enjoy. Or do with it as the Austrians do: mix it with some sparking mineral water and enjoy is as a spritzer! Perfect picnic companion. The grapes should have a must weight between 15° to 17° KMW, the musts are always completely fermented, and the maximum amount of alcohol by volume is 10.7% FEDERSPIEL: The term refers to the old local custom of calling in the bird when hawking. Federspiel wines have a minimum must weight of 17° KMW and a maximum of 12% alcohol by volume. They are fermented drily. These wines are comparable to those termed "Kabinett" quality.
SMARAGD : These grapes are picked at least a week after the main harvesting begins for that varietal and so it has more sugar (a minimum of 18.2° KMW.) This doesn't mean it is in any way a sweet wine, however. Following an old tradition, these wines are fermented until fermentation comes to a natural standstill. Smaragd literally means "emerald" and refers to the little green lizards that run around the vineyards. Designations like Kabinett, Spatlese, and Auslese are not used in connection with Smaragd. Smaragd wines must have longer corks (minimum of 49mm) and cannot be released until after May 1 of the year following the harvest.
The wines are also broken down on the following residual sugar scale: EXTRA DRY (extra trocken) = up to 4 g/l DRY (trocken) = up to 9 g/l OFF-DRY (halbtrocken) = up to 12 g/l OFF-SWEET (lieblich) = up to 45 g/l SWEET (süss) = over 45 g/l