[TN] Zind-Humbrecht Gewurztraminer GC Goldert 1992

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Nils Gustaf Lindgren 22 years ago

Several months ago, somebody, forget who, asked about Gwz and its age-worthiness. I don´t think any answers came forth, and I know I didn´t answer it - the oldest Gwz we´ve had (so far) being a GC Eichberg 1993 from Leon Sorg, which we happily finished back in 2001. At the time, one bottle of 3 had completely fallen apart, the other two being slightly on the ripe side, with an unexpected mineral nose, but oxidizing in the glass and after half an hour being unenjoyable. One of the good restos in Helsingborg (ELinor) played host to our spring lunch (me and my collaborators), and the owner has a very good cellar. This time he offered us a selection of ZH Alsace wines at 'reasonable prices', and we fell for a PG and, the Gwz. The latter was enjoyed with a plate of cheese, Taleggio, a Swedish hard cheese (Västerbotten) and a Spanish blue. [C] Surprisinlgy light, still with some green highlights [N] Very fresh, clean, starts on a subdued mineral tone but then crescendoes into old roses and fresh fruits [P] Continues very clean and fresh, no sign of oxididization, and none of the oiliness that sometimes makes Gwz less than totally great. Also is very low in perceived residual sugar, unlike most Gwz. Acidity is wellintegrated, and, for an Alsatian, alcohol does not dominate the impression as temperature rises.

Overall impression: This wine shows no sign of falling apart, I´d guess it could be saved for several years. It is a wonderful Gwz, one of the best I´ve had, with a charm, elegance and youthfullness you seldom come across in Alsace, and hardly in a wine of this age.

Cheers

Nils Gustaf

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C. John Mavrak 22 years ago

In 1999, I was at a charity tasting at a wine importer's home, and late in the evening (or early morning ... depending on your perspective) he opened a bottle of 1959 Gewurztraminer, from a small Alsatian producer (forgot the name) that he had studied under.

We all thought that this sample was going to be just a trip down nostalgia lane, but were we ever wrong! The wine was truly amazing! All the classic great Gewurz notes, just a bit subtler, and it held together for some time. Now apparently '59 was a great year in Alsace, and I doubt that many (if any) Gewurztarminers can hold for 40 years, but like so many times before, I can be proven wrong.

In terms of more recent vintages, over the past few months I've had a '93 Trimbach Gewurz and a '93 Z-H Pinot Gris, both drinking beautifully.

Cheers,

John Mavrak

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Nils Gustaf Lindgren 22 years ago

"C. John Mavrak" skrev i meddelandet news:RNHrc.6049$ snipped-for-privacy@read2.cgocable.net...

The ZH Pinot Gris 1992 was also very good - I only find that I have a linguistical barrier concerning PG, I never find the right words - abricots doesn´t really cut it. And this one didn´t taste of abricots. It tasted of mature, elegant PG. Slightly more signs of age than the Gwz, more secondary aromas. It, also, came from GC GOldert, and it´s the first time I tasted anything from that site. It is my life ambition, tasting wines from _all_ the GC´s in Alsace ... only I tend to forget which ones I already did ... ooops - better try it again, yes, def´n´t´ly, did that one years ago ... and now the clever buggers have made a new one, the Kaefferkopf, meaning beetle´s head - did that one, last year, only, doesn´t count because wasn´t GC then, right? so will have to find something from next vintage ... Seriously, ZH and Trimbach are amongst the great producers and if anyone should have the capacity to do everlasting Gwz, it would be them, and a handfull more. Even though I tend not to find TRimbachs that appeal to me, more´s the pity.

Cheers

Nils Gustaf

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[TN] Zind-Humbrecht Gewurztraminer GC Goldert 1992

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