[TN] Five Zinfandels

Feb 15, 2004 13 Replies

Hello; Friday, the 'Tastevins' of Helsingborg held a Zin tasting. I believe I have claimed, previously, that US wines tend to cost a lot in Sweden for reasons unknown to me - finding bargains is not easy. In terms of Zin, the Systembolaget offers 16 kinds (including some of different vintages), and of these, 5 cost less than SEK 100 (USD 14). All of the wines on trial this Friday cost more, or considerably more, than that. They were in the altogether not very good lighting provided very similar in color, being very young, bluish, and dark. All were of the 2001 vintage.



Ravesnwood Vintner´s Blend [N] Fiery, fruity, pepper? medium-big, uncomplicated [P] Good acidity, fruit (black berries) soft tannines Overall impression: The least exalted offering, uncomplicated and not very interesting, and not worth its price tag of SEK 129 (USD 18)



Ridger Geyserville [N] big and generous nose, very fruity, eucalyptus,. complex, young and fresh [P] Oak? Muscular tannines, dark fruit, blackberries, black cherries, chocolate, walnuts, orange zest, good persistance ending on a note of whipped cream (no sugar added). Overall impression: The most immediately accessible and enjoyable wine in the flight, and something I might contemplate even at the price of SEK 269 (USD 36)



Seghesio Old Vines [N] Impressive nose of raspberries and leather [P]Very forceful, strong tannines, bitter chocolate, smokiness Overall impression: Something to put in the cellar. And yes, the first impression we got when sniffing it was of a young, concentrated Bourgogne Pinot Noir. Price same as number 2



Ridge Lytton Springs [N] Bitter almonds, smoked ham, old copying machine (the kind that gives blue print) [P] Marked sweetness, cherries, cherry pits. Powerful tannines, nednotes of cream Overall impression: The one wine I personally disliked the most. Altogether much to 'charming'. Some thought this was the one wine most resembling a Puglian Primitivo. Price same as number 2.



Turley Old Vines [N] Very frocefull, at first hard to put words to, but resolves into something much like a red port - peppry, intense fruitness, sweet, and a bit of burnt sugar [P] Butterscotch, pepper, sort of a lemon geranium (a little metallic), very alcoholic. Overall impression: THe MC contributed that this was a Dolly Parton wine - pumped up. I understand his point of view while finding it faintly sexist. I´d say, that if wines were cars, this wine would be an early 70´s Chevrolet cab with 475 hp motor and six cylinders. That is, too much power for its own good. Price SEK 396 (USD 55)



CHeers



Nils Gustaf


I feel guilty depriving you of your angst regarding the pricing and limitations of selection, but it looks as though you got a great array of big-name zins at a price that isn't a whole lot more than I would pay in the central USA. And, you are fortunate to have a Turley available. I've never seen one in a store here.

Ravenswood's motto of "no wimpy wines" always seems to brag that isn't supported by what I find in the bottle. The VB is the entry level for them, but I've never really gotten much more for higher prices in the single-vineyard Ravenswood offerings. I'll concur with "not very interesting."

Geyserville is my favorite Ridge Zin, although the '01 Pagani Ranch showed better to me. Geyserville holds up quite nicely for ten years (or maybe more), particularly in good vintages like '96, '97, '00 and '01. It goes direct from Ridge at $30 and I've seen it in US stores for $26-28. So, in Sweden you're seeing a good price.

Strange, but true. I've often thought that a dark zin with the chocolate and smoke that Seghesio shows is a bit Burgundian.

Lytton Springs is usually a twin to Geyserville, with a bit sweeter note and less spice. Got to agree that the '01 LS isn't a winner. But Puglian Primitivo? Harsh!

Your automotive metaphor is a bit mixed, but Turley is known for BIG wines and an in-your-face blast of fruit. The price you post isn't unreasonable considering the limited production and availability. Most Turley's that I've encountered have only been on the wine lists of

***** restaurants. I suppose some lucky NY or CAL dwellers might find them on the shelves of top liquor merchants, but not in the heartland of the US.

Ed Rasimus Fighter Pilot (USAF-Ret) "When Thunder Rolled" Smithsonian Institution Press ISBN #1-58834-103-8

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Yes, it is a bit odd - some very high powered wines can (at least, as yet) be had at comparartively good prices in Sweden (cf, Sassicaia at

Keep in mind that this Ridge is a blend of Zinfandel, Carignane and Petite Sirah (the 2001 is only 74% Zinfandel) and thus doesn't show like a wine that is mostly, or all, Zinfandel. Ridge Geyeserville tends to show more bright fruitiness and less of the peppery, spicy Zinfandel characteristic. I think of it more in terms of a Aussie GSM style blend that a California Zin. (I also lay in as much as I can every year -- this is one of my favorite wines for everyday drinking).

Not sure about the blend of Lytton Springs, but if I remember correctly it is more Zinfandel based thus allowing it to show more of the Zinfandel characteristics.

A couple of other Zinfandels to try, if you can find them, are: Lolonis, Van Ruitten-Taylor and Cline (Cline makes several, and they are all quite nice. I prefer the basic California bottling (red label) because of the price point of about $11 US).

I think that when Ed Rasimus referred to this as a mixed metaphor he meant that a mid '60s Chevrolet with a 475 HP V8 engine would be a bit more historically accurate. By the '70s, American muscle cars had become emasculated by smog controls, EGR and low compression ratios. It's taken 30 years for them to recover.

BTW, just to keep things on topic, the Ridge Geyserville is my favorite of that bunch. The Ridge Lytton Springs is usually better than you described. I wonder if you got a corked bottle?

Tom S

Hello, Nils! Most interesting (and provocative) notes!

Of the ones you tried, this was the lowliest in terms of its status within its winery's lineup of wines (i.e., this was a Bourgogne Rouge compared to a few monopoles). It's also the one that shows the biggest disparity with US pricing (it sells here for $9-10). For what it is, IMO it does a good job, in contrast to some other vintages of the VB.

As Ed mentioned, you're getting good prices for some good wines. Geyerville is perhaps my favorite Zin. It's characterized by its core of berry fruit and its power, but also by its ability to develop with age. Though some don't agree, IMO Geyserville rarely shows at its best young and will take on some additional complexity in 3-5 years. As "CabFan" also pointed out, it's not

100% Zin and instead is a field blend of up to 5 different grapes. In 2001, it had more Zin compenents than it often does, but the Petite Syrah and Carignan do add some additional notes to the blend.

Another of my favorite producers. As opposed to the Geyserville and Lytton Springs, this is not Seghesio's Grand Cru but rather their Village-style wine. Raspberries, tar/leather and pepper are three very common things to find in the nose of a Zin. I had a very interesting talk with the winery representative from Seghesio at the last tasting I attended and he informed me that this wine is a blend of five different clones of Zinfandel, each with its own flavor profile. I had no idea that such clonal variation existed in our humble red grape, but in retrospect it makes sense. This is also drawn from several different vineyards, all within the Dry Creek Valley of Sonoma (wonderful Zinfandel terroir). In a good year like 2001, this wine will last for 7-10 year easily, though it will develop more like a Bordeaux than a Bourgogne.

Interesting that you disliked this so much, Nils. It's certainly a different wine than the Geyserville, but to me usually is less about red fruit than the Geyserville with more emphasis on the black fruits, pepper and tar/earth character of the grape. In 2001, I actually preferred the Lytton Springs to the Geyserville by a hair, but like Ed would probably take the Pagani Ranch over both. FWIW, here are my notes on it from a recent tasting:

n: cedar, tar and blackberry fruit p: rich entry, red berry fruit with balanced acidity, medium-full body, ending in a slightly tannic finish.

De gustibus...

I haven't had the wine in question, but can understand your impressions. Turley wines are indeed very big, very forward and do have a certain Port-like character. How to pair them with food is the question for me..

Nice notes, Nils. Thanks!

Mark Lipton

Indeed, nice notes. Prices don't seem that bad, maybe 20-25% over NY (except Ravenswood). Thanks! Dale

Dale Williams Drop "damnspam" to reply

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Gee, thanks, Mark ...

At USD 9 I might have OK´d it. Incidentally, thsi is were Swedish wine taxation turns pear shaped - the entry-level wines are comapratively harder hit by taxes. BTW, with the meal we had after the formal tasting, a Zin from Behringer was served - cost SEK 99 (USD 13,75) and, in my opinion, better value for money. Also it had an up hill fight after those muscular more high end wines (not least the Turley one).

Mine too, FWIW :)))

Yes - if I caught the MC correctly, most of the wines were blends with various mixtures of, predominantly, Petit Sirah and Carignan.

are three very common things to

Interesting indeed. The tar/leather (smoke) was apparent in a few of the offerings. It is quite evident that the Zins have a potential for development.

Au contraire, mon vieux - that is what we do all the time, and that is what enriches the experience! However, it appears you have drunk a much more pleasant (rather than pleasing) wine than I did ;) Also, it may interest you to know that Xina quite liked it.

Yes, that´s a good question - I have, in retrospect, come to think of them like a very rich Amarone (I was half-way ready to ask if semi-dried grapes were involved) and perhaps, if it develops over years, gamey game would be a good pairing - perhaps with a dollop of dark, bitter chocolate in the sauce.

Thank you for your input. Always a pleasure to learn more about the subject at hand.

Cheers

Nils Gustaf

Hello CabFan; Of the Zins you mention, only CLine´s isavailable at the pleasant price of SEK 89. I´ll givi it a try. Incidentally, I noticed that Cline also has an Old Vines Mourvedre (at SEK 129) - I´d love to sneak that one into a tasting of Bandol´s .... ;)

Cheers

Nils Gustaf

Hello Tom;

OK if you say so. It was just that we saw this movie about this weird reporter, going to cover some sort of cross country car race in the desert, being completely knocked out by various drugs (not Zinfandels, I think) and apparently the car he was riding in was claimed to be early 70´s. But that was in a Swedish newspaper.

I will gladly return to topic after this digression.

Cheers

Nils Gustaf

I've never seen their Mourvedre, but would find it interesting to try in company of some Bandols. Let us know how it is!

Cheers, Gary "Big Cab Fan"

Not dried, per se; they're just left to hang until they're _very_ ripe.

27 - 28° Brix isn't unusual.

and perhaps, if it develops over years, gamey game would be a

Sort of like venison con molé? Havana cigar in the sauce (or on the side) might be interesting too.

Tom S

Sounds like "Fear and Loathing in Las Vegas". It's a highly exaggerated account of some of the adventures of Hunter S. Thompson. The book was a lot better than the movie.

Me too. :^)

Tom S

It would stand out like a flashing red light, Nils. It's a very good wine in its own right, but one of its dominant characteristics in is a mintiness that I have yet to encounter in any Bandol. Give it a shot, though, and see what you think.

Mark

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