Wine progress after opening: 97 Rabbit Ridge Hedin Zin

So: I've written in praise of this particular wine before. At least I'm consistent :-). We had a small celebration - buying one house, selling another - and for once I had both time and inclination to briefly look at how a wine changed from opening. To give away the punchline, this would be a sufficient counterexample to disprove the hypothesis that wine cannot improve after opening...

Crumbly and hald-penetrated cork made me worry, but the initial nose was deep, full, no hint of taint (perhaps some whiff of oxidation, quickly dispersing). Dark berries, very full and extracted. The first taste was more overtly alcohol than I had expected, which prompted the thought that some opening-up time might be worthwhile.

10 min: more complex and much softer bouquet. Both smell and taste suggest that this was a hit, as it's opened right up: soft on palate, little trace of earlier aggression, some leather up front and a little cherry/oak/forest added to the berry.

At 20 min, there is/was a distinct chewiness. This really amazed me - it could have been three completely distinct wines. Definitely an eye-opening exercise. Tannins are coming out, pleasantly so.

30 min: suspect this is optimal, still soft initially but now with more follow-through punch, beginning to fade in the aftertaste. Sipping through to 40 min, the initial alcohol is reasserting itself, which is a great thing as we're now into the steak and fresh peas, and the edge seems to have developed in response to and in order to cut through the food. Remarkable.

Out at 90 min, the tannins are now back and rough, suggestive of barrel and flame. Yum yum - at some points might also be a nonsweet port, were that not a contradiction. And, happily, even after an overnight in the fridge and 20 min to breathe, the last glass drank beautifully with if anything a more restrained balance.

Anyway, as can probably be told, I really wish I had more of this but I am *hugely* glad to have opened one at an excellent time, and to have been able to appreciate it. A+ in all ways. I think this may have been the last year for the Hedin single-vineyard Zin, although I haven't checked in a while - I should do that.

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ewan.mcnay
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