Another Spraying Question

If the spray your using is a protectant like Captan ,Mancozeb, Sulfur or bordeaux mixture the stuff needs to be there BEFORE it rains. It prevents the fungus from starting. Mancozeb, for example, will not kill an infection it only stops new ones so it needs to be on the leaf prior to infection. It also spreads on the plant with rain. If your using a systemic ( Nova) or Stroby ( Abound) there is "kick back" depending on the stuff being used. BUT, It's ALWAYS better to have the spray on the leaves before it rains no matter what.

Bob

Don't know if this changes anything but here's what's in it: Phosalone 4% Ferbam 15%

Louise:o)

Theses are the ingredients in "Wilson's Fruit Tree Spray" I'm told by orchard owners in my area that this stuff is considered extremely benign compared to what they use so I wasn't worried when I bought it. Can anyone suggest something else that will work. If I don't spray, my "entire" crop will end up in the trash. I live in an area where everyone has at least one apple tree in their yard and we're completely surrounded by orchard so I have no choice but to spray if I want to harvest something. Louise :o) Otterburn Park, Quebec Canada

Louise wrote "I live in an area where everyone has at least one apple tree in their yard

Louise - In the States there is a government agricultural office in every county and they are very good about providing information about spraying schedules for apples as well as grapes and all other fruit and vegetables. Perhaps there is a similar office in your area of Quebec. If not why not spray what the commercial orchards spray?

Bill Frazier Olathe, Kansas USA

Hi Bill, I've already got a good schedule but the question is what should I use that won't be too dangerous (whatever that means) We don't have access to what the orchard use and none of the orchard owners are will to give up any of their info or sprays. Louise:O)

I emptied my 12 volt sprayer of broadleaf weedkiller, then put in Mancozeb. I sprayed on the ground until I was sure the yellow Manc was coming out, then proceeded to spray my grape vines. Damned if the first vine or two didn't get damaged. I'm dumbfounded that there was enough weedkiller residue left in there to do this. Hopefully, they'll recover. So, I pass my experience along. A word to the wise. Ken

Ken,

Thanks for the reminder. I'm in exactly the same boat, with my 2nd shot of Mancozeb in a few days. However, after the weedkiller I rinsed the sprayer several times & sprayed it thru too. It's been airing out for a few days now to rid the tank of the odor, which I figure can't be good for vines either. Maybe I should run some soapy water thru too? What was the weedkiller? 2,4-D?

Triple rinse with water, including the hose. That's the law in the USA.

That's why we use two different sprayers: one for herbicides, and one for everything else (fungicides, dormant oil spray, insecticides, etc.).

I was told to always have two sprayers, one for herbicides and one for pesticides/fertilizers, because it's difficult to completely rinse the herbicide residue. Using pump garden sprayers, it's not too expensive to have two.

Andy

Louise wrote "> I've already got a good schedule but the question is what should I use that

If there are orchards in your area there must be stores where they buy their spraying chemicals. These chemicals come in large packages for use in a commercial orchard and there's some expense involved. But if you keep the packages tightly sealed and in a dry, cool area they should retain their activity for more than a year. In my area several of us who have hobby vineyards split large orders of chemicals, corks, special yeasts. Perhaps you could do the same.

I have no idea what is recommended for trees and vines in your area but here in the Kansas City area I spray Mancozeb & Nova. Closer to harvest I switch to Captan & Nova. I add Thiodan to the spray for my fruit trees. Also included is Sevin or Imidan for insects as needed. I have no problems with disease in the vineyard nor the orchard.

Bill Frazier Olathe, Kansas USA

I'm using a 15 gallon 12 volt sprayer. About $100 at Tractor Supply, so I'll have to go with the thorough rinse regimen. I gotta add, I absolutely love the sprayer. I mounted it to the back of my lawn tractor along with a toggle switch, and can spray using the boom for weeds, or connect the wand for spraying grape vines. Ken

If you rinse 3 times like was previously suggested you should have no problem. Also spray through the hose to make sure the stuff is rinsed out of it also. NEVER use 2,4-D around grapevines. It's one of the worst things you can do. I use Roundup at half the recommended WEAKEST strength (iow, 1/2 THE DOSAGE RECOMMENDED FOR THE EASIEST TO KILL WEEDS) and it seams to do well it just takes longer. Using Roundup before bloom is "safer" because the vine PHYSIOLOGICALLY isn't flowing down towards the roots yet. All the activity is flowing out to the buds so the stuff isn't taken into the vine as readily. After bloom I'd use a "knock down" for weeds NOT Roundup. If the vines are mature ( 3 years or older) you can use Preen (Trefuralin sp?) , known also as simazine, to keep weeds from germinating (PRE-EMURGENT).

Bob

wEEZ,

Mancozeb is available at any garden center in the states. It is safe and does a good job on ALOT of different fungus.

Bob

I'll look for Mancozeb tomorrow but while I'm at it I'll look for an insecticide, any suggestions for something relatively safe in that department? Also can they be mixed and sprayed together or should this be done separately? I did end up emailing the Wilson site for their fruit tree spray and they said to spray before rain and it becomes pretty water resistant as long as it had time to dry before the rain comes down. Is it the same with Mancozeb? Louise:o)

Weez,

The Mancozeb I use doesn't need a spreader-sticker to keep it on. Actually they advise against it because of the spreading action that happens when it rains. Read the label. Some sprays are better if used with a spreader-sticker. Spreader-stickers are chemicals that help the spray stick and spread once on the leaf. Soap detergent sometimes is used as a homeade one but they sell the stuff at all garden suppy stores. As far as a safe insecticide, I guess it depends what you want to do. One that is fairly safe but will kill all insects in it's path is Carbaryl otherwise known as the trade name "Sevin". I only spray that if I have a HUGE problem. There are ALOT of bugs you need to look out for but the biggest problem I have is with Japanese beeteles on grapes. There is stuff, even homeade remides, that attack only that problem and leave the "good" bugs alone. As far as apples are concerned, I have no idea what bugs you'd be looking for. You need to do some research.

Bob