How tightly to cover the primary

Nevermind. Closer inspection reveals a hole + grommet + airlock. Still, the cover is very tight and it seems like a lot of work to remove it & then reseal it each time I want to take a SG reading, which is daily according to the kit directions. Is that just a fact of wine-making life?

Dave, for a red wine during primary fermentation, I cover the primary very loosely, and put a 1-2 lb. weight on the lid to "seal it". Thus it acts as it's own airlock, and allows easy access for stirring, taking sg, etc. Some types of lids either have to be hammered into place, or they leave a wide-open gap. In that case, I use a different lid.

You only take daily readings on the first kit. By the time the second is fermenting you'll be down to once a week or less.

Be sure to let the wine age longer than the instructions tell you. If this is the first kit you will want to try it as son as it is "done". but then you will realize it is not really "done" until it has aged for a year or so. Ed

When I started making kits (1996) my first primary had no lid. It came with a sheet of clear plastic, which I used to cover it and I tied string around it to hold it in place. Not air tight, but not a lot of circulation. After the first kit, I would cover that primary with a plastic garbage bag and make an almost air tight seal (to keep out fruit flies). I bought a second primary a year or two later, and it came with a lid and an air lock. I have a third bucket that I have used as a primary. It came with 23 litres of juice in it (inside a foil bag). Its lid has no hole, so I made a tiny hole and I put a sheet of plastic wrap over it... not tightly though. I've never noticed a difference in the quality of the wines based on where the primary fermentation was done. I have had an air lock blown off the top, with a bit of a mess on the wall, table and floor. I guess that was a particularly active fermentation.

My understanding is the high levels of C02 dissolved in a fermenting must as well as in the air above guards against oxidation with or without a tight lid. Covering serves mostly to protect from dust and other undesirable "drop ins".

Once the fermentation becomes less active (at about 1.00 SG for example) you will want to transfer to a secondary with an airlock.

I stand to be corrected but I've made some nice kit wines with "loose-fitted" coverings on the primary.

Thanks for the responses. I followed the general advice and reduced the tightness of the cover.

It's been about 24 hours since I mixed the ingredients, and not much in the way of bubbles. Temperature looks good, right around 75-76F. Should I be concerned yet?

Dave, Not to worry give it another day and you should see some activity for sure. HTH John Dixon

How long has it been since you added the yeast? That is the defining factor.

Did you use sulfite (or campden tablets)? That can delay the onset of fermentation, as it tends to stun even cultured wine yeasts temporarily.

Did you use a yeast starter, or just sprinkle the yeast atop the wine? A yeast starter can speed up the onset of fermentation, as well as assuring that your yeast are alive and kicking.

Did you add a lot of sugar? That can make it difficult for yeast to start up.

If there are NO bubbles, no foam forming on the surface, no sign of activity, you should start trying to figure out what's wrong. If there is sign of activity, it's just got off to a slow start. Give it a stir to oxygenate the must (yeast need oxygen to grow initially), and wait another

You could also kick up the temperature a notch.

I've found some kits to be active and some not so much.... one unmistakable sign is that you will come home and will be greeted to the smell of yeast... this takes from 1-3 days in my experience with about 15 kits.

I have a primary with an airtight lid that can accept an airlock. The lid is hard to remove (you get on top of it with your knee, use a bunch of brute force, a few grunts and groans...). Instead of the lid, I use two pieces of Saran wrap, taped together (so it will cover the whole top of the bucket) and hold it in place with a rubber band. Or if I don't have a band that big at the time, I tie a paper clip to each end of a piece of string (of specific length), and then connect the two paper clips with a regular rubber band. The gassing off slightly balloons the wrap up, but is enough to keep the air and dust from getting in.

As for SG's, I couldn't be bothered with doing it daily. When it's bubbling, I know it's working. When it slows down or stops, I know it's time to do something with it.

Hey Dave,

Welcome to the online BREW JUNKIES retail operation in disguise! You would get all of this in one shot from a local kit dealer, it's OK to keep asking BEFORE something goes wrong.

We use a plastic sheet/trash bag and a large rubber band (or loop of garment elastic). The idea is that it is self-venting and releases CO2 at its own rate but stays sealed from undesired stuff the rest of the time.

We never sold lids as they were not necessary for the primary fermentation,and the lid probably will blow off anyway. We did not recommend the plastic bucket for secondary or aging. It's useful to mix in additives and siphon to/from. I would use the lid to keep the primary free of dust in between batches, that's all.

Irene (who has heard MUCH crazier questions...)