Is there a dry yeast that will have good results for a mead? Also what yeast nutrients should I get. I am going to be placing an order with Austin Homebrew Supply in a day or two. I have honey and water......
Sorry, I was just referring to ingredients. let me see what I have as far as equipment.......
3- 6.5 gal carboys
1- 5 gal carboy
9- 1gal carboys (from gallons of wine)
1- 6 gal ferment bucket
1- 5 gal ferment bucket
18- air-locks stoppers coming out the wha-zoo hydrometer digital scale digital thermometer beer refrigerator with CO2 and 4 tap set up corny kegs Lagering refrigerator with external temp control thief siphon starter bottle filler brass jet bottle washer
45 bottle drain rack bottle brushes table top capper New gravity brewing system (I am breaking it in this weekend) here is a picture of it http://68.201.127.51/sailing/thu-system.jpg
6- gallon stainless pot O2 cylinder with hose and tubing for aerating wort spoons paddle
1 gallon of idophore stick on thermometers I know I am missing things, but that is the gist of it.
Johnny, Depending on how you handle it, just about any wine yeast can make a good mead. I've had good results with Lalvin 71B-1112 & EC-1118, as well as Danstar Nottingham. Fermaid, yeast hulls, whatever you have generally will work as a nutrient for mead.
What kind of gravity are you starting with, how sweet do you want it when it's done? What kind of honey? Are you adding any fruit, etc?
You might want to consult the rec.crafts.meadmaking news group, or hit up
I sure hope you are using a honey with a very good after taste; I just made a batch using some wild honey and the aftertaste is utterly horrid. It looks lovely, smells great, alcohol content is right, you-name-it, but it gives you a taste like one of those generic artificial candy-flavored children's cough syrups. And I have 19 litres...... Bob
I get good results with Nottingham Ale yeast-- it leaves a touch of sweetness to my still meads. I've also had good results with cysers and other fruit meads where at least some of the fruit is in the primary using no additional yeast nutrients. However, I would recommend you use yeast nutrient and energizer with any mead, and especially for traditional/straight meads.
I'm betting Bob's referring to a 'wildflower' honey -- that is, one that's from multiple sources. Wildflower is a crapshoot. The only batch I've had that was drinkable was fermented to only about 8% alcohol -- maybe that had something to do with it, maybe it didn't. Maybe some of these other batches will age out in a couple of years.
Well, a friend of mine (whom I brew with) is a full-time bee keeper with about 500 hives now and he is my source for honey. I just love the flavor and it has a nice dark color. That is the color of honey here is Southeast Texas. It is very lush and green in SE Texas. I will have to remember to ask him what blooms the honey is made from. I know some of it is from tala-trees (sp?)
K1V-1116 should work just fine. It deals with the low-nutrient must well; some meadmaking regulars swear by it for this reason. The fusel-taste may take a little longer to age out, though.
CRAP! I hate any fusel taste! And hate waiting for it to go away just as much!!! Can I ferment it colder to prevent the fusel taste? I was under the impression the fusels came from fermenting to hot and violent.
I've had some luck making wine coolers with ginger ale with my mead; it's 13%. I'm sure as hell not planning on ever drinking a drop of it straight! Bob
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