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First Brew

I have just finished mixing my first brew and am now patiently waiting for the fermenting to begin.

With the kit that I bought, I had a can of malt, a bag of hop pellets, a pack of yeast and a bag of Spraymalt.

On the yeast, it told me that I didn't need to make a starter and to just sprinkle onto the wort which I have done -

Started off with hop pellets in fermenting bin with 3 pints of boiling water - left for 15 minutes Mixed in Spraymalt followed by malt Topped up to 40 pints/5 gallons with cold water Sprinkled yeast on top and mixed in

This was all done following the instructions on the box....

The instructions tell me to mix this each day however, I thought that mixing (adding extra air) was a bad thing? Also, the guy that I bought my kit from had no hydrometers but told me that this was unnecessary since I can 'see' once fermentation has completed and I will only need the hydrometer once I start mashing.... Currently there is a scum on the surface which smells like the hops (nasty smell!)

When will I be able to tell that fermenting has begun/ended?

Thanks, Simon

Reply to
PieOPah
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On Mon, 4 Apr 2005 15:11:53 +0000 (UTC), "PieOPah" said in alt.beer.home-brewing:

That's what they all say. Boil a cup of water - I use a canning jar, so I can pour the boiling water into the jar (to sterilize it) then put it right into the freezer. Cool it to 20C (68F). Sprinkle the yeast on to it. Time this so the yeast sits in the water at least 15 minutes before you need it.

NO!

Mix it so vigorously BEFORE you add the yeast that the whole top is filled with foam. (I use a 16 inch wire whisk.) Fold the foam into the liquid. Do this for about 5 minutes. Yeast needs a LOT of oxygen to start.

Start buying from someone else. This "guy" is in the business of making money, not in the business of helping you to brew. (If it's at all possible for you to boil 6 gallons of water, start doing full-boil brews - the first taste will tell you why.)

Well ... if you drink enough of that particular beer you'll probably get to like those hops.

You DO have an airlock on the fermenter, right? When you've seen no bubbles for at least a few hours. (No airlock? When there's no more scum on the surface - then rack [transfer] the beer to another container - WITH an airlock - and wait at least a day or two, to make sure there are no bubbles - before bottling.)

Other people might do it a little differently, but that's what I'd do if I had no other way.

Reply to
Al Klein

no do not agitate it daily testing the specific gravity if the best way of know ing the NEEDS of your beer.

15 to 18 degrees or 8 to 10 days is about typical.celcius of course.

Reply to
dug88

Thanks both.

I am currently waiting for a Hydrometer and Thermometer to be delivered (I bid on E-bay and happily won at a low price - the guy who didn't sell to me has lost out and I have got the items cheaper although used!)

My beer is currently fermenting happily (the green 'hop' gunk is slowly giving way to white bubbles) although the wife is worried that this will overflow (lid of bin is only on loosely to avoid a build up of CO2).

The room that my brew is in fluctuates between around 18 to 20 degrees throughout the day (cold during the night warming up throughout the day)

Reply to
PieOPah

On Wed, 6 Apr 2005 06:40:26 +0000 (UTC), "PieOPah" said in alt.beer.home-brewing:

If you don't have the lid on tight, and an airlock in it, the fermenter should be sitting in a tub - just to prevent damage to the floor if it *does* overflow. (Of course this doesn't prevent damage to the ceiling if it "overflows" violently, but I won't mention that to your wife if you don't.)

According to my conversion, that's just about ideal (64-68F).

Reply to
Al Klein

Well I have syphoned everything into my keg (and about 3 pints into a bottle) and have discovered that there is a tiny leak near the tap!!!

I think that I have managed to fix it (seems I was able to tighten it into the rubber seal).

If not, would a rubber sealant be okay to use around the tap area? Doubt it could contaminate the beer.

Reply to
PieOPah

never use anything except food grade quality components, around beer. some rubber /silicone sealents even contain cyanide. throw out the batch start again with a new keg. or fix it to food grade quality.

Reply to
dug88

Since tightening up the tap there has been no further leaking, so I am hoping that everything is okay.

Reply to
PieOPah

the usual water temp in oz is 24 C so 75.5 F

If anyone wants a handy temp conversion tool check this..

DIRECT DOWNLOAD >>

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WEB SITE >>

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Reply to
Chris *Sydney, Australia*

I wonder if you can brew cyanide. Beer for the inlaws??

Reply to
Chris *Sydney, Australia*

On 9 Apr 2005 11:07:23 -0700, "PieOPah" said in alt.beer.home-brewing:

Dow-Corning sealant. They make some in food grade - it's vinegar-soluble. The stuff sold to seal all-glass fish tanks would work. (Fish are a lot more sensitive to what they're breathing than we are to what we're eating.) I have no idea what's available on your side of the Atlantic, though.

Isn't the keg guaranteed in any way?

Reply to
Al Klein

reminds me of the day i had beans and burritos and some cabbage. the garlic dill pickles were just an afterthought.

i also hoped things would not leak i think i ended up having to paint the bedroom.

Reply to
dug88

hi cyanide is so tackie. give them all the great beers they can drink. (this is called the killing them with kindness routine) now lets get nasty put 3 globes of garlic on a sheet and roast them in the oven. consult your guide to thermonuclear reactions or dangerous chemical warfare for exact times and temps. go ahead and smear it all over some great pork chops.. and broil it on the bbq good freshly boiled cabbage is a good menu topper. mixing it with kim chee is getting close to war crimes.

Reply to
dug88

whoops hold it not vinegar soluable what you are mentioning is silicone sealant, and goes from domestic, to surgical, to putting your chimney together. NON of this is acceptable to long term contact with food products. dupont makes teflon tape, in many grades, only food grade filament tapes are acceptble to your needs. sorry took so long these guys have a habit of deleting half the text, so i have to search back a few weeks to see what is going on.

Reply to
dug88

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