1998 Opus One

1998 was a mediocre vintage in California. In general, Napa Valley reds were all a bit light, some more than others. I did taste the '98 Opus One shortly after release and found it quite light on the palate and vaguely recall even a bit of something like green olive which *might* have matured into sous bois. After the string of 1994-1997 vintages of Opus One which seemed to indicate that Opus One had become a real contender (though still over-hyped), 1998 was disappointing, even when the mediocre vintage is taken into account. I was a Mondavi shareholder at the time, and went back to Opus One a few months later to taste the '98 again, with identical impressions.

It's just amazing. I'm sure there are collectors out there that just have to have a '98 to make complete vertical or something. I'd much rather buy a case of current vintage BV Rutherford Cab than one bottle of '98 Opus One.

Dana

I have never understood the appeal. I have had 10 different vintages of what I thought was an OK $25-30 wine.

Dana, Although '98 was no '97 or '99, many of the better producers made very credible wines in that year. In many ways, I preferred the wines of '98 to other, more ballyhooed years -- and that's reflected in my cellar, where I have more '98 Napa Cabs than '97 or '99. De gustibus, and all that... And, yes, Opus *is* overhyped :-)

Mark Lipton

I absolutely agree that many good California wines were made in

1998; I suspect I wouldn't be cellaring the vast majority of them too long, though.

Yup.

Dana

It's interesting that the general opinion is that Opus One is overrated. My only experience of it was in a restaurant in Macau in

2000. Thankfully, I wasn't buying. I don't know the vintage but I found it pleasant and quite drinkable though lacking a little in elegance.

I recall that there were a number of clarets on the list that I would rather have had and that my comment to friends on returning to the UK was that the Columbia "David Lake" Cabernet that we'd been drinking in the summer of that year was a much better wine.

The only thing to write home about was that the Opus wasn't anything to write home about.

James

James Dempster

You know you've had a good night when you wake up and someone's outlining you in chalk.

I understand that 1998 wasn't up to the standards set by other vintages in Napa but I've had a number of wines (Caymus, Shafer Hillside Select, Phelps Insignia, etc) from the '98 vintage that were quite good and are still drinking well. I recently read the "House of Mondavi" and after reading it I'm surprised that they were able to produce any decent wine at all. It seems that if it weren't for the high quality fruit that they were blessed with that they would have really had a bust on theri hands with Opus. Too many chefs in the kitchen, etc. I also seem to recall that the pricing for Opus was basically done by the Baron by taking the benchmark for pricing of luxury Napa cabernet and doubling it.

I had a Shafer Hillside select from 1998 last night with Osso Buco. Great combination and nice wine so there is plenty of cabernet from 1998 that is good.

Sure; I didn't think my statement said there was *no* good Napa wine in 1998, at least I hope no one gets that impression. It's really the hallmark of a great producer to make a good wine in a challenging year, and there were many examples of that in the 1998 vintage.

If I recall correctly, Wine Spectator basically wrote 1998 off as a flop, which wasn't the case at all, but it's true that 1998 wasn't a "normal" year for California wines.

Dana

Aren't most Cali Cabs? :-)

Salil

I refuse to take that bait, Salil. :P

Mark Lipton

Well, a rising tide hypes all boats, right?

Dana