1. Home
  2. General Wine Forum
  3. A long snippet. Dinner at the French laundry

A long snippet. Dinner at the French laundry

Hi,

I am shocked to see that Tom Shudic expects me to give you all blow by blow description of our winery visits and of our meal at The French Laundry.

I WILL talk about the visit to The French Laundry, and pass the buck back to Tom to talk about the winery visits he was in on. Then I'll try to do my best to talk about the wineries that he didn't make (we had to start pretty early in the morning for some of them).

======= This is a pretty long report, so if you don't have time, don't bother to read it through.

We (Jacquie & I, Tom Shudic and two friend of mine from Boston and Annapolis) arrived a little early, to be welcomed in a charming and friendly way by the Maitre d'Hote, and were seated right in the centre of the main dining room at a large round table. Almost immediately, flutes of champagne were poured, which were included in the price - a nice touch indeed. Then came little cones of a smoked salmon mousse with whipped cream and lemon, which sparked up the champagne beautifully. That said, AFTERWARDS, the champagne's slightly honeyed finish showed better. Most interesting, because we tasted it in three distinct phases. (Pierre Gimonnet Brut, Blanc de blancs 1er Cru, Cuis).

We chose the Chef's Tasting Menu at $150. This was, honestly, a very fair price, when compared to the prices asked by Bocuse and other 3 rosette places world wide.

When the sommelier asked us what we wanted to drink I told him that we were thinking of a budget of around $100 a head, and wanted to drink mainly/all american wines. They have a large number of bottles in halves and by the glass, and so he chose from amongst them, with the exception of the Kiralyudvar Cuvee Ilona '99 a particular favourite of mine and one I wanted to share with the others.

The meal started with "Oysters and Pearls". Two poached "Beau Soleil" oysters, served with Osetra caviar, and tapioca in a oyster/fish fumet sabayon sauce. Fascinating. The saltiness of the caviar and the sweetness (yes, they were really sweet) of the oysters were tied together by the sabayon perfectly, and the tapioca gave a gentle textural contrast. As perfect a composition as I can imagine, and which set the tone for the remaining courses. We finished our champagne with it, and the marriage of food and wine was good, if not outstanding.

For the next course, we had had three choices. The menu choice of a salad of Big Island hearts of Peach Palm, with Yali Pears, celery and Tellicherry peppercorn "gastrique". Amazing, the different vegetables were all perfectly poached, and served with a sweet and sharp sauce poured in a thin ring around them, I've no idea what was in the sauce but it was sublime. The wine served was Robert Sinskey's Pinot Blanc

2003, which was aromatic and delightful - mid way between an Alsace PB and a white Pinot Noir clone that Gouges makes in Nuits St Georges. This was the only course where alternatives were offered.

They were, a) a risotto with white truffles (real ones from Albi at a $40 supplement) and b) Poached Foie Gras en torchon, served with a pear relish and toasted brioche. (at $20 extra). Jacquie & I passed on these, but two of our number had them. Michael, who chose the Foie Gras, decided to have a glass of the Cuvee Ilona with it. I didn't taste his FG, as we have Foie Gras in abundance at home, but did taste Tom's Risotto. This was good, but so overpowered by the white truffles that honestly, one could taste nothing else. For me this was the only touch of vulgarity in an otherwise beautifully restrained menu. The wine went excellently well with our vegetables , neither overpowering or being overpowered. Tom was too busy being amazed by the white truffles to say much and Michael pronounced himself delighted with the foie gras and Tokaji.

Next course was "Crispy Skin fillet of Japanese Medai. This was accompanied by baby bok choi, sweet peppers, breakfast radish "filaments" and a young ginger aigre-doux. The vegetables were made into a bed with the aigre-doux dressing, and the wonderful, perfectly cooked fish, seared on the skin side, was dressed on top, with the radish filaments on top of that. The fish and veg were magnficent, but the dressing, in my opinion needed a drop or two more lemon/vinegar/whatever to redress the balance away from the "doux". This was served with a Sauvignon Blanc from Selene's Hyde Vineyard in Carneros. The match with the SB was adequate, no more. If the dressing had been a touch more acid, it would have gone much better.

We then had a real stunner. "Beets and Leeks" Maine Lobster tail "cuit sous vide" with melted green leeks, pommes maxim and red beet essence. Phenomenal. The lobster was cooked under vacuum at low temperature (180) in a mixture of water and butter. The result was amazingly tender, very tasty and delightful. I've never had better. The leeks were cut into ultra thin strips which were simmered in butter almost to the puree stage, and the beet essence was (probably beets passed through a juice extractor) cooked down to a syrup. The potatoes were 6 microtome thin slices, arranged like a daisy, salted, and cooked till crisp. The whole dish was fabulous. It was served with Staglin Family Rutherford chardonnay 2002. This was a moderately oaky wine, with excellent fruit, giving good complexity. A near 5/5 match, I felt, with both the dish and the wine enhanced by the marriage.

Then came "Poularde Farci (speeling mistook) aux truffes noirs (speeling mistook)". This was served with a savoy cabbage fondue and lardons, and a sauce perigourdine"

(I note the grammatical errors, as in my opinion a restaurant with claims to be the best in the world ought to know that both Poularde and Truffes are feminine, and that therefore the adjectives should agree in gender (farcie and noires). There was two or three other errors in the French. Perhaps I should offer my services as consultant). Served with the 2002 Lazy Creek unfiltered Pinot Noir, this was another triumphant dish and a magic combination. The savoy cabbage and bacon is classic, and with the beautifully tender and tasty chicken, it was even better. Fabulous.

Then came "Herb roasted Saddle of Lamb, with wilted spinach, forest mushroom ragout , caramelized salsify and a red wine sauce". Perfect again, the spinach broke Jacquie's heart, as she had no idea how they had got it so tender and tasty. The same could be said for the lamb too. The ragout and salsify were both delightful, and the whole dish a revelation. It was paired with the French Laundry exclusive bottling of the glorious Napa Valley Merus Cabernet Sauvignon 2001. Another perfect marriage, with the food just taming the tannins nicely and the wine sparking up the meat.

One of the guests at a neighbouring table had been watching us with our wines, and then decided to share his with us at this stage!!! I'm ashamed to say that I don't recall the name of the wine, though it was magnificent. (cost abt $350 a bottle too!!!).

The meal was nearing its end, and we had the cheese, which was a Tomme de Savoie, with globe artichoke "mustard" and a little arugula salad. A step down, I'm afraid, especially when matched with the huge Alsace Dirler Grand Cru Spiegel VT Gewurztraminer 1996. The cheese was entirely overshadowed, and we were all in agreement that the wine would have gone far better with cheese like a Munster or a Vacherin Mont d'Or. I found the Tomme uninspiring. Jacquie says, "Yes, it was uninspiring." So that's that!!

We then had a sorbet to clear our palates. Most had Coconut sorbet, with lime jelly and coconut giandula, Tom and I, who don't much go for coconut like that were given a delightfully sharp huckleberry sorbet with a lemon bar and a sweet yoghurt sauce. Excellent again, though I found this an odd moment to be served the trou normand, because it was just before the desserts.

We then had an astonishing Capuccino semifreddo with a doughnut!! The coffee flavour was opulent, rich and I have no idea how they got it! The doughnut was light and tender. Super. Served with a Ridge Petite Syrah Essence, which was all plums and chocolate, it went OK, but had a bit too much acidity IMO for the marriage, though this was an almost impossibly difficult match.

We then had the "Valhrona Chocolate Tasting" which had a sort of chocolate ganache bar, a chocolate brownie of unbelievable decadence and a caraibe chocolate chip ice cream, which was gorgeous. With this we had the rest of the Kiralyudvar Cuvee Ilona, which was even more powerful and delightful than it was when we had it at the Connaught this time two years ago year. All apricots, vanilla and tropical fruits, it stood up very well to the powerful chocolate dessert, but I wouldn't claim it was a perfect match, and the Syrah went much better, and I suspect they had forgotten that we wanted to have this with our dessert (especially as it was available by the glass).

We finished with coffee (excellent) and mignardises, (equally excellent). A truly wonderful meal in all, and I feel that I have been quite unduly nitpicking to find fault.

All the best

Ian

Reply to
john shaw
Loading thread data ...

Ian, I doubt that I will ever have the perseverance to get into the FL, or the refinement of palate to appreciate it fully. However, thanks to this post, I now feel as if I have some sense of the experience as "seen" through your own impressions. Thank you for that, and best wishes to you and Jacquie on the remainder of the trip.

Mark Lipton

Reply to
Mark Lipton

It's just like being there Ian and Jacqui !

Thanks for the compte-rendu... I see you are making the most of your trip. Enjoy it and see you sometime when you get back !

Mike

Mike Tommasi, Six Fours, France email link

formatting link

Reply to
Mike Tommasi

Thanks for a great report.

My wife and I are planning a trip to New York in March and hope to go to Per Se. Your report makes me really want to see what it is like.

Bill Hogsett

Reply to
Bill Hogsett

Ian,

Great report, almost like being there. Well, not really. :)

Hey, we were just talking about this recipe Tuesday night. When Joe Bongiorno came over and made an appetizer that involved peeling dozens of brussel sprouts to have the tender leaves isolated, we started talking about how home chefs occasionally take on things that were maybe, just maybe, a bit too much for the situation (time constraints and lack of paid help!). My example was the night Betsy was making a romantic dinner for two (David was with his dad or something). She choose Keller's butter-poached lobster . She was cooking when I got home at 5:30. And at 6:30, 7:30, 8:30. We ate at 9:30. Between the initial parboiling of lobster, making the potatoes (thank god for a mandoline),making the beet essence, removing the meat, poaching the meat, etc we still giggle. By the time we sat for our romantic evening I was starved, and she was exhausted. But an excellent dish (if you enjoyed it, I'll copy recipe for you). We had with a Chassagne, another good match.

best, Dale

Dale Williams Drop "damnspam" to reply

Reply to
Dale Williams

That was a most wonderful review thanks. I am completely jealous as I have never been able to get into the place because of timing or not being able to get through their reservation line. Just one final, if vulgar, question. What was the cost of such a sumptious feast and was the total volume of food as overwhelming as it sounds?

Reply to
Lawrence Leichtman

I can answer that. The total volume of food was not as enormous as it sounded, as the portions were small (but sufficient) and spaced over several hours.

The check for the five of us was ~$1700. That's a new record for me.

Tom S

Reply to
Tom S

Stuff and nonsense! Would you expect _me_ to do it? I'd make a hash of it. ;^D

I was flipping through the French Laundry cookbook, which is available at e-Bay for ~$40. The recipe for this dish (as well as some of the others) is in there. It's a signature dish for the restaurant, and I could have eaten several servings quite happily!

Although the truffles were good, Michael's foie gras was what I _should_ have opted for. That was da _BOMB_!

Ian, are you _sure_ it was the lobster that was vacuum bagged? I could swear that it was the chicken.

Agreed, but the Chardonnay was quite oaky even by my standards. It went pretty well with the lobster though, as would have my 2002 I'd bet. :^)

As in that English, Ian. ;^)

It was Colgin Merlot, and it _was_ wonderful! 2001 vintage, I think.

Granted, but I would have preferred fewer dessert dishes and more of the oysters, lobster and lamb. Yum!

Tom S

Reply to
Tom S

Thanks. That is a bit but I spent more at the Inn at Little Washington and the menu sounds better at the French Laundry.

Reply to
Lawrence Leichtman

I've already started planning my trip. Tom mentioned comparability to Bocuse and other Michelin 3-stars these days and it caused me to think back to my visit to Bocuse which was in 1981. The tariff for that dinner was $1200 for seven--and it was worth every sou. It sounds as though with inflation over the years, things are not much different.

What was great about the trip was that the day prior we had dined at Girardet in Crissier CH and thought that was the best meal possible in a mortal world.

Still not sure about who won the competition. Could have been a draw!

Ed Rasimus Fighter Pilot (USAF-Ret) "When Thunder Rolled"

formatting link

Reply to
Ed Rasimus

Ian - Lovely mouthwatering (even to a vegetarian) write up. If only restaurant reviewers could similarly convey your sense of taste and enthusiasm for excellence. Cheers! Martin

Reply to
Martin Field

The November issue of Gourmet has a long review of Per Se, Thomas Keller's New York restaurant that apparently has about the same menu as the original French Laundry. In it you will see pictures of some of the dishes mentioned by Ian Hoare including "Oysters and Pearls" and the sesame-flecked cones topped with salmon tartare.

I would be interesting in eating there, but not the tasting menu. For one thing, I do not fancy raw salmon as used in the cones starter. I also want nothing to do with the oysters and pearls. If the caviar is fit to eat it should be served very cool and alone. Good caviar needs nothing else, and least of all being next to something warm. If you must garnsh a dish, use salmon or flying fish roe. Caviar is very expensive and is worth the expense if you buy only the very best, such as a few top Russian and Iranian belugas, which are becomig extremely rare and expensive. A chef who uses top caviar in any other dish instead of alone should have his fingers whipped with a wire whisk.

With that rant out of the way, it might be interesting to try their lobster and a few other dishes if they can be ordered a la carte.

The decor of the New York Per Se appears to be rather stark industrial modern. I feel more at home in a more traditional dining room. Also, apparently the dress code in Per Se is rather relaxed for both the patrons and staff, altough the service by the staff is described as nearly flawless. In a restaurant this expensive, I expect the staff to be in at least tuxedo and that the customers be in at least a decent suit and wear a tie.

My mailbox is always full to avoid spam. To contact me, erase snipped-for-privacy@webtv.net from my email address. Then add snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com . I do not check this box every day, so post if you need a quick response.

Reply to
Cwdjrx _

A couple of points of clarification is you please M. Oh-Arr.

Is it true that -

(1) You have now changed your name to John Shaw and are immigrating to get closer to The French Laundry to teach French Grammar. (2) You have entirely given up on English Grammar "There was two or three other errors in the French." (3) That while you were very impressed by the food and wine, you were underwhelmed by the standard of the ironing emanating from such an esteemed laundry. (4) That you are now contemplating a renaming your own establishment "The French Launderette" and plan a 100% increase in the fare for staying so that you may regularly traverse the Atlantic "To study modern trends in shirt and sheet washing"

Sounds like a stunning evening - you can go home "well stuffed"

Luv to SWMBO

st.h

Reply to
st.helier

Hi Dale,

Also replying to the others who wrote in response.

We loved the visit and the food, and felt that if we had been lucky enough to share that pleasure >> We then had a real stunner. "Beets and Leeks" Maine Lobster tail "cuit

etc. Yes, it's not a recipe you throw together, but I would advise anyone to try the lobster cooked this way. A total revelation. The beet etc are a plus, and IMO typical of the creative genius that CAN be found around in kitchens toda, but the cooking method is within anyone's grasp.

Tongue is hanging out! (that's a yes _PLEASE_).

All the best Ian

Reply to
john shaw

A pleasure.

Only as a nom de plume while tripping the light fantastic across the USA.

A vile canard.

Tsk. how amzingly _vulgar_ of you to have commented on this...

Well, they were certainly less starchy than they might have been, that's true.

Nope, It's to be called "Frogwashing" As for the rest, I cannot answer for fear of being accused of misusing the NG for vulgar advertising.

That's certainly true. But that was equally valid after a night or two chez Mr Spohn, and in fact chez all my american afw friends. We're currently with Ken & Eileen Blake who regaled us with an excellent and unusual meal, and five delightful wines! (Among 6 of us, so don't get the wrong idea).

All the best

El Oooo-arrr

Reply to
john shaw

DrinksForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.