CA wines downunder!

The June dinner of the RBSB club was held at O'Connell Street Bistro - one of Auckland's top restaurants.

Our small club does include among its membership such noted names as winemakers Joe Babich (Babich Wines), Nick Nobilo (formerly Nobilo Wines, now Vinoptima), Andrew Hendry (Coopers Creek); wine writer Michael Cooper etc..

The theme was California comes to O'Connell Street"

Few CA wines make it to NZ - (relative to NZ) high US domestic prices and unfavourable exchange rate differential makes them very expensive when compared to local or Australian or European imports.

The format is simple - all wines served blind - a pre-dinner "starter", then each course is accompanied by 2 or three wines.

And usually, the organisers throw in a ringer - just to keep everyone on their toes.

After each course, two or three people are asked to comment on the food; the wine(s); the match and then "guess" the what/where/when of the wine.

The starter was bubbles - crisp, even austere, but fresh and lightly fruity.

Most thought Champagne - well, close!

Roederer Estate Brut from Anderson Valley - here in NZ, this would retail just slightly less than most NV champagne, and above many minor labels, but this was a very pleasant start to the evening.

Entree was Crispy Calamari with roasted garlic & saffron aioli and wild rocket salad.

Two whites were presented:

(1) 2005 Au Bon Climat "Nuits-Blanches au Bouge XXV" from Santa Maria Valley (2) 2006 Hyde de Villane Chardonnay - Napa Valley.

Both well made examples - I preferred the latter with the squid dish - quite a serious wine with a good dollup of acid, mineral hints with ripe nectarine flavours. The former was fleshy and ripe, spicy (oak?) pear and spice - very good but IMO the HdV was a better match.

Main course was Wild Goat Osso Bucco, with polenta fritta and cavolo Nero; three reds were poured (decanted three hours we were told!)

(3) 2007 Jacob Franklin Petite Sirah - Hayne Vineyard, Napa Valley. I liked this wine - inky black, smoked bacon / mushroom on the nose, hints of ripe plums, black pepper and dark chocolate - good acid / fruit / tannin, maybe a little out of balance owing to extreme youth, but this went very well with the chevon. (4) 2005 Hyde de Villaine "HdV" Carneros Syrah. I thought this wine was totally bizarre - I could not get past overpowering nose of burnt rubber! Medium weight, sappy, tight as hell. Unlike any syrah/shiraz I have had in my life. (5) 2005 Seghesio Family Old Vine Zinfandel. I picked the variety immediately (thanks to gifts from Mark Lipton and Joseph Coulter. I understand this wine is made from old (nearly 100 years) head-pruned vines from Alexander and Dry Creek valleys. I could become a real fan of this style of wine.This wine was a dark purple hue with hints raisin and spice. Not overtly jammy or chewy, this Zin was a spicy, peppery wine, with a hint of dark cherries.

The meal was finished with a selection of cheeses - served with another red.

I was busy extolling the virtues of this wine, when I was put on the spot and asked to comment (followed by Nick Nobilo!)

I was initially torn - between a Pauillac and a quality CA Cabernet Sauvignon. The wine was very Bordeaux like (and a very young example too I thought). Medium / full bodied, good acidity, clean style, cassis and cedar - I opted for an excellent CA wines about 5 years old. (Nobilo went for a first growth Bordeaux as a tricky inclusion!)

When unveiled it proved to be Ridge Monte Bello 2003 (good guess by his lordship!) - god! this was a very special wine!

Faced with a two hour drive home, I opted out of coffee and port - trying to think of a way to get my hands on a case of this wine (impossible I am afraid!)

Apart from the very weird showing of the HdV syrah, this was an excellent selection from the West Coast.

Reply to
st.helier
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I stand ready to be of service in the future, but I fear given:

That I must stock up on a different varietal.

It is always good to hear from you - the weather will improve, I would send some of our heat if I could,

Cheers Joseph Coulter Joseph Coulter Cruises and Vacations

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Reply to
Joseph Coulter

Why try to appreciate California wines?

As an ex-California-er of 30 years, California wines are totally unacceptable to me. I buy an occasional Kirkland California wine, or one recommended by a wine shop, but I say ad infinitum, they are consistently terribly disappointing.

I always am puzzled by the quantity of wines drunk or sampled from various posters from various countries. How can this be?:-))

Dee Dee

Reply to
Dee Dovey

What is it about California wines that you find so off-putting?

Reply to
Bi!!

Can't speak for Dee, but for a long time the QPR was ridiculous. CA Rhone blends at $25 that remembled Parallel 45, Oak monster Chards with no finesse or flabby cheapies. Yes there are good ones, and I am slowly allowing myself to try some, but for years I just avoided CA in favor of France Spain and Italy always easier to pick up a good bottle. Then the Australians started making wines as I like them, NZ and S. America and it becomes hard to justify to dollars to experiement.

Joseph Coulter Joseph Coulter Cruises and Vacations

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Reply to
Joseph Coulter

Joseph wrote on Tue, 07 Jul 2009 11:55:04 -0400:

Does no-one remember "The Judgement of Paris"? I have to admit that my wine-tasting at the moment involves mostly OZ and NZ but I tend to make comparisons with CA rather than French wines. I did find an interesting Shiraz from South Africa recently: Douglas, I think.

Reply to
James Silverton

This matches my experience precisely, down to the Parallele 45 example. There are many wonderful wines from CA, but I do most of my wine buying in the $10-$25 range and find much better QPR elsewhere. For under $20, I'm much more happy with a good village level Chablis than with an "oak monster chard" and happier with a Gigondas than with anything I've had from Napa at that price (OK, I realize that second comparison isn't like with like, but still).

Not to mention the plethora of really interesting white grapes (Riesling, Albarino, Chenin Blanc, Melon de Bourgogne, Gruner...) that seem to have no serious representation in CA but that can be sensational.

To end on a positive note, how about favorite CA wines in the $10-$25 range?

I'll start:

Matanzas Creek Sauvignon Blanc. (Though even here, for under $20 I can get wines that are just as exciting from the Loire.)

Reply to
Doug Anderson

Yeah, so maybe one's viewpoint on this depends on how much money one wants to spend.

Maybe the Chateau Montelana Napa Chardonnay is just as good or better than the Domaine Christian Moreau Chablis Grand Cru, but I'm just not buying that much wine at $50 a bottle. (A pity, no doubt, but that's the way things are.)

At the prices I am paying (mostly sub $20) I seem to have better luck outside of the US.

My theory about this by the way, is that land is simply too expensive in California and Oregon to be able to afford to make good moderately priced wine. Whereas in some of the rest of the new world (e.g. Argentina) land is cheaper, and in the old world, although land is not cheap, the estates that have been in the same family for many generations don't have to pay high mortgages. Someone who knows more than me could say whether this theory has any actual basis in fact...

Reply to
Doug Anderson

Here's one that I will buy maybe 3 more bottles today at Costco. Yalumba Barossa Shiraz Viognier 2005.

Normally I wouldn't like the taste of 14.5% alcohol, and it is a bit sweeter than I usually like, but I like this one and it is good value $13.59.

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:-) I notice it is imported by a Napa Valley importer.

Dee

Reply to
Dee Dovey

I recently read the book. The movie based on it, STUNK!, but I have said that prevoiusly :-) Dee

Reply to
Dee Dovey

Can't disagree with the QPR issue but would disagree slightly with the Oz comparison. I find their wines to be quite overdone, too extracted at times, and very little to distinguish one from the other. I hate to use the dreaded "t" word but to me Aussie wines seem to lack variety within the varietal. I would agree with the Spain and French QPR issue but if price is no object I have found many terrific Cabernets and Chardonnays from California over the years at the $15- $30. Not all of the Chards are overly oaky or sweet and the Cabs can be world class. The top wines from California can be world class. If I want a Rhone style wine then I buy a Rhone wine. I don't think that the wines of California (or anyplace else for that matter) are interchangeable just because they use the same varietal.

Reply to
Bi!!

Dee wrote on Tue, 7 Jul 2009 12:39:55 -0400:

Dee

I did a little too much cutting in this reply but you won't get much of an argument from me about the book "The Judgement of Paris" and the movie, which was even more padded than the book, even if I agree with its premise.

Reply to
James Silverton

Yeah, that pretty much sums up my feelings, too.

OK, here's my list:

Edmunds St. John (Bone Jolly red & pink, Heart of Gold, Rocks and Gravel)

'07 Ridge Three Valleys (the first one I've liked)

Tablas Creek "Cotes de Tablas" red & white

Mark Lipton

Reply to
Mark Lipton

There was a time that I wouldn't expend my dollars for Australian either, but there are some good ones, Trevor Jones unoaked Chard for about 12.50US for example is a case in point.

The Molly Dooker as discussed previously is another story Joseph Coulter Joseph Coulter Cruises and Vacations

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Reply to
Joseph Coulter

Actually, I tend to move towards the Aussie chards for exatly the example you cite...good brisk, unoaked Chards for under $15. Couldn't agree more about the Molly Dooker....I do like it on my pancakes though. I do think that California has swung back to the lighter, less oaky, more Burgundian style of Chards by and large. Leese Fitch, Joel Gott and Tortoise Creek are all pretty good chardonnays for under $15.

Reply to
Bi!!

Not sure I understand the question or any of the comments. All of California is bad. Not a useful blanket statement. There are good and bad wines everywhere. Maybe CA is not the best buy but there are certainly some marvelous wines. My wife and I have probably tasted at various places over 500 bottles this year alone. Maybe no more than a sip of some. We go to wine events and try all we can. Only way to know what to buy and what you like. I attended one event with 300 wines from

15 countries.
Reply to
Lawrence Leichtman

Elyse Chardonnay $25, a host of Zinfandels including Ridge under $25.

Reply to
Lawrence Leichtman

Couldn't have said it better myself!

Reply to
Bi!!

I'll keep an eye out for the Elyse. I've never seen it.

As far as Ridge, I like them too. Enough to pony up for Lytton Springs every once in a while. But I sure don't see much Ridge Zinfandel for under $25, and a lot of the zins I see that are on the less expensive end aren't very good. What do you like that is under $25?

I like the Ravenswood Sonoma, at least after it has had a few years of age to settle down. That is a good example for me, since it is in my price range (around $15) though I usually need to cellar it for a few years.

Reply to
Doug Anderson

I agree completely with what you say. I would just add that there are many many wines produced in California, and the enormous majority of them are cheap, and either not particularly good or downright bad. The only reason I can think of for Dee Dee to not like *all* California wines is that her experience is mostly with the cheaper poorer-quality wines.

Another addition just came to my mind: many of the better California wines are made from the better grapes used in Europe and are made in imitation of European wines. In a blind tasting of wines of a similar type with wines from both California and Europe, it is often extremely difficult to pick out which ones are from California.

Reply to
Ken Blake

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