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Dehlinger Pinot Noir

For those of you who don't know his wines, Tom Dehlinger has made a reputation for great Russian River (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noirs.

I just popped a bottle of the 1998 "Goldridge". I had been a little apprehensive about it, since my last experience with a Dehlinger Pinot Noir was the extremely un-remarkable 1997, which (a few months ago) seemed tired and lacking fruit.

I don't remember what vineyard that 1997 was from, but it definitely wasn't the "Octagon". I never bought enough of his wines from the mailing list to qualify for that, and that being the case decided several years ago not to buy anything at all - at least not by mail.

Anyway, I'm pleased to report that the 1998 is a hell of a lot better wine than the 1997! Although it isn't at all Burgundian, it isn't the jam in your face style of California Pinot (which I happen to like) either. It's rich, supple and elegant with overtones of pepper, a bit of tar and mature fruit, and it is entering its prime. It has considerable alcohol, but enough fruit to carry it in balance. If you have some, you could either try it or hold it - depending on how old you like your Pinots.

Tom S

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Tom S
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And long before that, he was making excellent, value-conscious wines. It was his '78 Zin that really opened my eyes to how complex a wine could be. I think that it cost me all of $4 or so.

That's good to hear, Tom. As we're not on the mailing list, my encounters with his wines are rather hit-and-miss these days. My last Dehlinger Pinot was probably the '96 Goldridge, which was superb. I agree that it's not likely to be mistaken for Burgundy (or Oregon), but it is certainly far more refined than most of what comes out of RRV these days (Gary Farrell and Williams-Selyem excluded).

Mark Lipton

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Mark Lipton

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