Does this interest anybody?

Jan 25, 2006 2 Replies

Hello, Several months ago I asked in this forum about the origin of the term TOkay d'Alsace - soon to be prohibited by EU law. THere is, as everybody who has taken an interetst in Alsace eines know, a legend concerning the (toatally historical) LAzare Schwendi who is said to have imported the variety (really pinot gris) from Hungary, and that´s why it is called Tokay - the problem being that, historically, pinot gris has not been cultivated in Tokay. Now, after pestering various knowledgeable Alsatians, I have learned, from the very friendly and helpful Mr Daniel Bornemann, that, in fact, the first mention of Tokay was c 1750, and that the variety was imported to Würtemberg by an official, from Hungary, a few years earlier. From Würtemberg it was spread to parts of Alsace apparently under the same jurisdiction (Alsatian history is difficult to get a grip on, I thought it was French from 1648). So, it would seem that the "legende aimable" is little more than a legend. That, if Lazare imported vines from Hungary, these most likely disappeared in the very chaotic century that followed his death (1584). Interested? Maybe not. But this appears to be the true story.



Cheers



Nils Gustaf


"Nils Gustaf Lindgren" skrev i melding news:oCJBf.154595$ snipped-for-privacy@newsc.telia.net...

..., the first

Now, what was imported to Würtemberg from Hungary and then spred to Alsace? Pinot gris? That is not traditional Tokaji, as the allowed varieties are Furmint, Harslevelu (sp?), Yellow Muscat and Zéta.

Answers.com tells: Pinot gris is known from the Middle Ages in Burgundy region from whence it spread, arriving in early Switzerland and in Hungary by 1300. It reached Germany by the end of the 16th century.

That begs the following question: What if the Pinot Gris once indeed was grown in Tokaj and then replaced by Furmint there?

Anders

"Anders Tørneskog" skrev i meddelandet news:3MaCf.10846$ snipped-for-privacy@juliett.dax.net...

Hello Anders! My original question, several months ago, was the origin of the term Tokay d'Alsace, which connotes pinot gris. THere is a legend in Alsace that the varietal was brought from Tokaj by Lazare de Schwendi in 1568, he having sacked that town and brought with him 4 000 barrels of wine, and the vines, back home.

However, the term Tokay in Alsace was not found in writing until c 1750. And it referred to what is today considered pinot gris - which as you point out comes originally from Bourgogne (where it is still cultivated under the name of pinot beurot, but in very small quantities).

It is historically confirmed that pinot gris was imported into Hungary in c

1375, on the orders of the Habsburgian emperor Charles IV, by Cistercian monks, and planted around Lake Balaton (Plattensee in German). THis is where it is still found today, and cultivated udner the name szürkebarát ("grey friar").

I believe that Furmint is attested way back into the Middle Ages as the foremost variety in the Tokaj area, itself known as a viticultural region since the first settlements of the MAgyars c 1000-1100. There does not appear to be any reason to believe pinot gris ahs ever been planted and cultivated in Tokaj in qunatity, nor any reason to believe that a change of variety took åplace there in historical times.

It appears fairly clear that the variety imported by the Würtemburgian was pinot gris, and that he got it from Hungary, hence, from the Lake Balaton area. Calling it Tokaj most likely was a marketing gimmick, on a par with "Chablis from California" - according to Christian Callet on fr.rec.boissons.vins, the practice of making "TOkaj" in the 18th century wwas fairly widespread. The name was indeed outlawed in Würtemberg proper in 1766.

Harslevelü

Unlikely, vide supra.

Cheers!

Nils Gustaf

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