Infanticide report: '04 Pipeau

Jan 07, 2008 5 Replies

Opened a bottle of the 2004 Chateau Pipeau (St. Emilion) last night to accompany some rare beef and a rather delightful spinach/pine nuts/sultanas dish.



After a 90 minute decanting, the dark almost opaque Bordeaux gives up aromas of dark fruits and an almost espresso like complexity. Rich and full on the palate, the wine is surprisingly soft for being so young. The wine is probably at risk of being characterized as a 'New World' style wine from the Old World, but if you like a big, rich, easy drinking right bank wine, this one is definitely two paws up.



My ability to project drinking windows can be rather hit and miss (I tend to drink my Bdx earlier than some folk), but I would suggest that this wine is drinkable now, with some improvement potential for a few more years. But the soft tannins and moderate acidity suggest to me that it probably should be polished off within the next 5 to 10 years.



Those who are interested can find the wine at K&L, where I got these for $28.99. A good price for a decent quality Bordeaux.



Hey AxisOfBeagles - Thanks for the good word on Pipeau. It's one of those up-and-coming wineries in Bordeaux that are starting to make excellent names for themselves, yet still provide good value. The 2005 Pipeau (not yet released) is supposed to be tremendous, though built in a flirty, fruity, New-World style. Let me return the favour for a recommendation for a great Bordeaux: Chateau Puygueraud. The 2003 is still kicking around some stores and is generally cheaper than the Pipeau. My thoughts on Puygueraud's merits are here:

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Matthew

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We were at Pipeau on 17th September 2005, when by dispensation they were already picking the Merlot — the Ban not being until the following day. The grapes coming in were almost perfect with neither unripe nor rotten ones and the triage table was manned by only 6 people compared with the normal ten plus for that Chateau — there is a photograph at

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— the seventh person is in fact only collecting grapes for us to taste. This has been a steadily improving Chateau for some years in my view. I would personally agree that the 2004 is not yet really at its best and by drinking it now one does commit yet another of the many infanticides of decent wine which now take place — that would be even truer of the 2005 which was tasting potentially very good indeed from a barrel sample last year. There are some good 2004‘s about — it has been a year lost in the shadows to some extent I think, rather like

2001.

Tim Hartley

Thanks for the recommend Matthew. Winesearcher shows quite a few retailers with the '03 in sstock ... unfortuantely, all but one are out East! But I will chase it down and try it.

If this has actually appeared before please forgive me — although I sent it yesterday it doe not seem to have appeared on the group so fr as I can see.

I agree entirely that Pipeau is one of those Chateaux which have made grreat strides inthe last ten years. The 2004s are good — though I would have to say that they will be mush better still in three, four or five years time and the admission of infanticide is probably justified! the 2005s will be very good judging bya barrel sample last year. The quality of the grapes was superb. We were there on 17th September 2005 when the Merlot was already being picked, by Prefectorial dispensation before the Ban des Vendanges. the triage table was very undermanned by normal standards and there were very few busy hands picking out the grapes — those working ther had little to do compared with most years. There is a photo at

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forthosewho would like to see it. The busiest person, left nearest to camera, is in fact only selecting grapes for my group to taste — not sorting.

Tim Hartley

AxisOfBeagles wrote in news:2008010713273416807- me@donotreplycom:

Opening a wine too young is "vinfanticide".

Fred.

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