Thinking about Burgundy (bit long)

Feb 26, 2004 7 Replies

I first visited Burgundy wine country in 1985, with friends, casually. Spontaneously (from Paris), not very focused, with rudimentary knowledge of the producers. Included a 4.5-hour (the French would say "complete") country lunch near Corton, auspicious with local wines including extravagant half-bottle 1969 Musigny that killed any uncertainties of faith in the potential of the region's wines. (All humanity should experience such wines!)



We poked around Gevrey-Chambertin. It was a quiet day, few other wine tourists about, some of the producers' facilities in the old village open for tastings. Indeed there was competition for our attention, some of it underhanded. "Of course you may visit -----, d'opinion Monarchiste: his wines are as old-fashioned as his ideas." "Ah, you've come from -------. An adequate winemaker, for a pig of a Socialiste." (This last is said with feeling, and careful removal of the cheroot to spit on the ground for punctuation.) Welcome to Burgundy.



We settled at the firm of Philippe LeClerc. I knew their wines, was keeping some in the US; we bought a few to take with us (for about half US retail, at the time). We unexpected visitors were welcomed warmly by Madame the matriarch, especially after my smooth friend Bill (a US expat living in Paris, doing Marketing work) introduced me with some nonsense about how I could be good for her business. (My French, always très limité, was then extrêmement limité, and Bill was happy to step in and make trouble.)



I returned later but am no regular. I'm now considering a visit to Burgundy for an unusual food-wine opportunity this year. Good company, rare privileges. (If any of you is heavily involved in food or wine there and wishes to correspond by email, I'd welcome it.) On the other hand, it would be vacation time. Part of me hungers for fresh air and exercise instead of wine and the good but heavy foods of Burgundy I've come to know, and respect! Cheeses, ducks and their livers, snails and garlic stacked in melted marrow fat in a hollow bone in Beaune, the outrageous ham-cheese-feuilletage and Salade-au-Lard served at La Bouzerotte in Bouze -- enough to cause hangovers from just food. (It happens.)


Uh oh. That was a wonderful posting, and I hate to zero in solely on the "lard" aspect, but this leads me to a personal question. I LOVE good food and wine, but being a relatively healthy eater and quite conscious of it, I began to stress out just READING the last sentence of your posting. I've only recently begun to accept the fact that I will not be able to work out for the week I am on my Southern France/Provence river cruise (no facilities). I thought I read that Southern France cuisine was more like Italy--olive oil, sun-drenched vegetables, garlic, seafood... Or is that just along the coast? Or am I just dreaming. Before and after the cruise, I will have 3 nights in Paris and 3 nights in Cannes. I'm not into butter, cream, cheese, and fatty meats. Am I doomed?

-Cherie

[snip] ] vegetables, garlic, seafood... Or is that just along the coast? Or ] am I just dreaming. Before and after the cruise, I will have 3 nights ] in Paris and 3 nights in Cannes. I'm not into butter, cream, cheese, ] and fatty meats. Am I doomed? ] ]

Cherie, you'll be fine. Here in Normandy you'd be less happy, perhaps. (Although I could promise that the butter, cream and cheese are different than you've had elsewhere, and the meat isn't necessarily fatty). "Lard" by the way just means back bacon.

Nice to meet you too, actually! :) And try a St Nicolas de Bourgueil from Nau Freres with that surf and turf, just thought of it. The Loire cabernet franc reds go as well with delicate fish and shellfish as any reds I know.

-E

Not doomed but you will have to choose carefully and if your French is marginal (when reading a menu) you may want to ask about certain preparations. While the emphasis is on the freshest foods available, there is still a fair amount of richness. Missing the cheeses in France would be as bad as missing the wines. Select small portions from the obligatory cheese table but at least taste them. They are wonderful and have a digestive effect to counter the effects of too much wine! I think that they may aid in replacing some of the normal flora and fauna that can be wiped out by alcohol. Perhaps an "old wives tale" but it always worked for me.

Bi!!

"Emery Davis" in news: snipped-for-privacy@address.com...

Moreover -- though Emery is too moderate to mention it -- if you eat too much in Normandy then customarily you call for "Le Trou Normand," a small glass of Calvados; this burns a hole (le trou) in the food and opens up space for you to again eat too much.

By coincidence the Las Vegas annex of New York's _Le Cirque,_ in the Bellagio complex, is, or has been, managed by a Norman expat, M. Fabrice Bals (just as its wine service is, or has been, managed by a Burgundian expat). On one occasion an intrepid diner, having requested whatever the kitchen was good at, demanded "time out" after the first eight courses, and hinted at recourse to "Roman methods" should the courses fail to slow down. "If you want to do that," quipped a waiter -- another French expat -- "go to Caesar's Palace, next door!" (I am not making this up.) A better alternative all around, countered the diner, would be Le Trou Normand. This perked the resonance, conceivably also homesickness, of M. Bals, who graciously conjured a couple of types of Calvados, indicating that few in Vegas employed such a good old proven remedy. At length the diner declared "j'ai la fortitude!" and the meal resumed for some time.

M.

One person I know spent around $600 there on a fairly lavish dinner for two; they then stepped outside the restaurant to a Roulette wheel where he promptly won the price of the dinner, betting on zeroes. This technique however does not always work.

Thanks for the reassurance, gentlemen. I think I will need to learn to say "sauce on the side", lord knows I use that term enough here! (de la cote? sur la cote?) Anyway, RV, I promise not to avoid cheese altogether in France, I know that would be a shame. I don't eat much of it here in the States, except for bleu cheese and chevre on salads. (The "Michigan Theme Salad" is very popular here (Michigan) which involves lettuce, bleu/roquefort cheese, pine nuts (or walnuts), and dried cherries.) Anyway, I promise to try some cheeses in small quantities while in France.

Emery, I did not know you that you reside in Normandy. Until a few weeks ago, our summer trip was to entail a French Impressionist art-themed river cruise through Paris and Normandy (instead of South of the France/Provence cruise), 3 days in Paris, and 3 days in London (instead of Cannes.) I did quite a bit of reading about Normandy (and my poor husband read a 523 page book on D-Day only to find out that our cruise was cancelled and we were going in an entirely different direction). I did see that the food was a lot heavier in Normandy. But I was looking forward to trying Calvados.

Max, I dined at Le Cirq at the Bellagio a few years ago with my husband. It was one of the best meals we have ever had. I think we may have had to skip dessert because we were too full. I didn't know about many options I had to make more room. :) But that reminds me of the time my husband informed our waitress (I think at a Charley's Crab somewhere) that we were unfortunately too full to have dessert. The waitress unbelievably suggested to me and my husband that we order the key lime pie because fruit opens up the stomach and we would be able to eat more if we ordered the pie. Sigh.

-Cherie

I did it the other way around, gambling at the casino of Rhodes in Greece, first losing money, then playing the number 22 that my wife suggested.

24 came up - she said go on, 23 came up, she urged me on, 21 came up but she told me to continue and I peppered the table with chevals, carrées and transversales on the number in addition to 22 itself which did come up... That made for a very nice dinner at the Kon-Tiki floating restaurant in the city port for the two of us :-) Anders

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