TN: 2 nice Italians - Chianti Classico and Etna Rosso

Dec 03, 2009 3 Replies

With Batali's parsnip/pancetta pasta, the 2006 Fontodi Chianti Classico. Larger framed CC, big black cherry fruit, slightly surprising oaky vanilla notes, moderate tannins, good acids. Not especially friendly, needs time. I often find Sangiovese doesn't do well overnight, but this is better on night 2, more integrated and less overt oak. Will leave others alone for a few years. B/B+



With takeout pizza, the 2005 Biondi "Outis" Etna Rosso. I loved the '04 of this, and am not disappointed with the '05. Maybe a bit more fruit forward than I remembered the previous vintage, but still a lovely balance of fruit, acids, and light tannins. Cherry/kirsch fruit, lively in mouth, some peppery spice. Good length, not a blockbuster but sweet and elegant. B+/A-



Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.  


Can I assume that the Etna Rosso was Nerello Mascalese? I've had a number of them recently and they always remind me of a cross between Grenache and Pinot Noir.

I think the Biondi Etna Rosso is about 80% Nerello Mascalese, with the remainder the other Nerello (the second part of the grape name I don't remember). I'd say reminds me of a cross between Sangiovese and Pinot Noir, but that's a quibble. In any case I tend to like Etna Rosso, the combination of high altitudes and volcanic soil make for a more elegant wine than my prejudices about Sicily would expect.

Cappuccio? I had to get past those impressions of Scilian wines also. I've been drinking a lot of Passopisciaro lately which is from Etna and made from Nerello Mascalese, the top line wine is called Franchetti and is made from Petite Verdot and Cesanese both from high up on Mt Etna.

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