TN: 2 sateliite Bdx, 1 NY Riesling

Dec 01, 2005 4 Replies

Betsy was away at a Sufi retreat, and I basically did fridge/freezer cleanup for a few nights. A couple of low-end Bdx and a NY Riesling accompanied an assortment of leftovers.



I know the 2000 Canon de Brem (Canon-Fronsac) got a lot of kudos as a QPR favorite. And it's hard not to like the forward red fruit attack, oozing with red plum and black cherry. Good concentration, light ripe tannins. But ultimately this leaves me a little bored- there's nothing that says Bordeaux to me. Good party wine, though. B/B-



More to my liking is a 375 of the 1998 Ch. Faizeau Vieille Vignes (Montagne-St.Émilion). This wine was $13 in 750s, then I got some halves at $7.99. On opening, this is still surprisingly tannic for a minor satellite at age 7. But this is a nicely balanced wine- medium-bodied, good acidity, the tannins present but not dominant. Lots of earth and a bit of leather on the nose, very nice raspberry and blackberry fruit, quite impressive finish for the price range. Holds up well over a couple days. Day two seems more plummy/chocolatey than before. B+



And then there's a 2004 Brotherhood Dry Riesling (New York). It's rather dilute and lacking in concentration, and that's a good thing. Because the last thing I'd want is a more concentrated version of this wine, with its cheesey aromas and flat apple fruit. How can you make a Riesling that seems to have unripe fruit, yet it also seems lacking in acidity? I can't say that "America's Oldest Winery" has ever impressed me, but this example leads the pack in suckiness. Some friends included this in a gift basket of upstate items (hey, the food parts were good), but I wish they had saved their money (and my palate). C-/D+



Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.



Most wines here get a shot as a cooking wine, or into the vinegar vat, but the Brotherhood Riesling screamed "throw me down the drain" so loudly I obeyed

Rereading my comments it is apparent that it might seem I'm bashing NY Riesling. I'm only bashing this one! I've quite liked Rieslings from Sheldrake, Hermann Wiemer, and Ravines. In fact Riesling is probably my favorite Finger Lakes varietal.

Dale, I agree. I've also had good Riesling from Miles (2003), Heron Hill (2003) and Lamoreaux Landing (2004). The last two have beautiful tasting rooms, BTW.

Ravines I've not heard of. Ob which lake are they?

Regards, Dean

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