Betsy picked up some Schaller & Weber smoked pork chops, served those with a savoy cabbage/porcini/pancetta side and sweet potatoes. I was thinking Alsace Riesling, but instead popped an Austrian Riesling, the
2004 Graf Hardegg "Steinbugel" Riesling (Weinviertel). I tempered my expectations, as my dry Austrian Riesling experience has been mostly Wachau, Kamptal, Kremstal, and I have a vague notion that Weinviertel is not as respected. This ended up being pretty nice. Dry but with a sweet note to the lemon and peach fruit, rather intense minerality, decent finish. There's a (pleasant) light note of pine, but the stony minerality is dominant. Good acidity. This is a little lacking in concentration and length vs. a really top flight Riesling, but for the level it's quite a decent wine. B/B+
Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.