TN: 3 good values (Beaujolais, Burgundy, Alto Adige)

Mar 28, 2007 8 Replies

Sunday Betsy played the matinee, I picked up some skirt steak on sale, and made a fajita marinade. Nice to have grilling weather back. With the spiciness of the fajita, I wanted a light red with good acidity, and fell back on a fave, the 2005 Brun l'Ancien Vielles Vignes Beaujolais. This needed a little time to open up (I decanted about hour before starting the grilling), but what's better than a sip while getting grill going? By serving time it was showing more - big black cherry fruit, some earth. Continued to open through evening. This wasn't so light, but it did match with dish well. This could use some time, though the plastic cork makes me lerry of real aging. Will put away my remaining bottles and reexamine in 2008. B+



So the 1993 red Burgundy vintage is controversial. Well, not really, most critics think its great, with two notable exceptions. Even some of the fans say that the greatness is only in the top wines. Well, with Judy Rodger's Zuni Chicken with bread salad, Monday we had the



1993 Drouhin Gevrey-Chambertin, a 14 year old negociant village bottling. A bit light at opening, but put on weight as evening progressed. Black cherry and red currant fruit, a huge streak of minerality. Nose gets more earthy/loamy as it gets more air. Nervy acidity keeps this lively all through night. Next night it is beginning to show a little oxidation, but still a fine core of fresh fruit. You truly couldn't ask for more from a wine of this level. Well, I could ask for having more bottles, but sadly I don't. A-

Tuesday Betsy made a grilled tuna dish, with a quinoa side and green beans with cherry tomatoes. I opened the 2002 Cantina Terlan "Siebeneich" Merlot. I don't normally look for Northern Italian reds (especially Merlot), but I'm a fan of Terlan's whites and Lagrein; plus I saw a note from a salesman I respect at Astor on this. Round and juicy (riper than I would have expected from a mountain Merlot), straightforward with nice red plum fruit framed with a little pepper and hint of sandalwood. Round but not flabby, a good buy in $12 Merlot. B



Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.



Dale, I just had a bottle of the '93 Drouhin Gevrey and your discription is spot on. Personally I like the '93's. They tend to exhibit what I would call classic burgundy flavors with an elegance and sleekness that I enjoy. I'm not a huge fan of those big over blown, oaky black wines that we so often see these days from Burgundy.

That sounds about right. Did you try the '06 at CSW? (It didn't appear in your notes) I was shocked to learn that it's already in the bottle.

Yum. I have exactly two '93s in the cellar, both Jadot 1ers (this was from before my Burgundy epiphany). It sounds like they may be ready to drink soon...

Thanks for the notes, Mark Lipton

Funny we should both have that! Agreed re the elegance.

Mark, they were pouring '05 at CSW. I saw Bill B. posted a note re the '06 in Boston, but my guess is at CSW they concentrated on current vintages if still in stock (Boston was a trade tasting)

Mark, they were pouring '05 at CSW. I saw Bill B. posted a note re the '06 in Boston, but my guess is at CSW they concentrated on current vintages if still in stock (Boston was a trade tasting)

Dale, Sorry to be nosy but I always feel a bit out of the loop about this. Is Betsy an actress on Broadway or TV? Would I recognize her name?

BTW, thanks for your past advice on wines and recipes. I made my first Zuni cafe chicken recipe last night based on reading about it in your post last month, and it was just terrific. Served an '04 Solaris PN (Carneros), which went very well.

Regards, Jon Rose

I had a few bottles left in my cellar. I assume that they made a bunch of it and it was well priced as I recall.

Not an actress, cellist. Plays with NYC Opera.,

My favorite chicken recipe, and plays very well with Pinot Noir!

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