A very loose cork had me worried about this one, in spite of a good level, and there was almost no nose; quite brickish might also indicate premature aging.
But in the mouth, a classic. Very balanced, layers of kirsch, spice and chocolate, very long. A real winner from an excellent vintage, lighter than some, still a mature and typical wine at its peak. A delight, to drink now over the next couple of years.
I'm not a huge fan of Mont Redon, but they scored a home run with this elegant wine.
-E
Far be it from me to answer for Emery, but here's my reason: even in excellent years such as '98, Mont-Redon usually produces wine that is lighter, less complex and far less ageworthy than that of many of their neighbors. In less successful years, their wines can be downright dilute and uninteresting. This is all the more shameful since, by all accounts, they have excellent terroir and a pre-1980s history of making profound wines. In fact, I am mildly surprised to hear Emery's report on the '90, but as I've never had it (and moreover rarely disagree with Emery's judgements in these matters) I have no reason to doubt what he says.
Mark Lipton
Hi Mark and John,
Just back from a 6+ hour lunch, mes excuses if I'm less than coherent... ;)
Mark, you certainly put the finger on part of my problem with Mont Redon. But additionally, I think it was a conscious decision, part of a movement in the 80s to render "lighter and more accessible" the CdP style. Ironic, since those that stuck with a heavier (more traditional) style profitted from the Bob phenomenon. But I think that eliminating the typicity of a wine to try and "please the [current] market" is really just too bad...
On top of this the owner (who's name escapes my rather addled self right now) pulled a big attitude during a chat some years ago, which was an obvious turn off. :) But certainly Mont Redon enjoys a reputation which for the reasons Mark mentioned is no longer deserved, in my view. That said, this 90 demonstrated that it can still be very good sometimes.
John, I'd guess that both the '97 and '95 would be better now than later.
Another positive thing about Mont Redon: they are one of the only places that commercially sell Marc de Chateauneuf, that I know of. It's pretty good, too!
-E
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