a few Rhones: Perrin, Clos des Cazaux, Faucon Dore

Apr 08, 2009 4 Replies

Couple of wines worth noting.


1998 Vacqueyras Clos des Cazaux, Templiers. A fine mature Vacqueyras from a good year. Full of life, tannins well resolved, bramble and spices with a long finish. Excellent.


2007 CdR, Clos des Cazaux. Unfortunately now with a plasticork. Why not go to a screw? I guess at under 5 EU there is interest in keeping prices down, an there is no problem drinking this soon: a pure delight, full bodied lush grenache, kirsch overtones and an elegant nose. I defy anyone to find a better wine at this price point, frankly at 3x it would still bring a smile. Attention, not listed on the domaine price lists, this wine is reserved for those "in the know..."


2005 CdP blanc, Roger Perrin. I think the domaine under Luc is doing very fine work, but this wine is a flop. A little oxydized tasting, some nut and melon CdP overtones, but a weak dilute finish. Some enjoyed, for me it disappointed.


2004 CdP rouge, Roger Perrin. Young and just getting a little sleepy, but after opening a big liquorish and black cherry mouthful with a good tarry back palate. Very enjoyable, now the trick is to resist temptation.


2005 CdR Prestige, Roger Perrin (mag). This is the "almost CdP" that is such a tremendous deal. A big dark presence, still young but opening over the meal into a classic CdP-grenache style. Very pleasurable and the ultimate praise is that every dinner guest wanted to buy some when I get around to ordering.


2005 La Soumade Rasteau Villages. A little austere but opens well in the glass to a classic Rasteau, big and dark, black fruits, coffee and spice cake. Drink or hold, very enjoyable.


2005 La Soumade Cuvee Prestige. A little pinched right now and perhaps not as good as the villages wine, still enjoyable but demands a lot of air, and a meal to stand up to. Probably not worth looking at any time soon as the tannins are quite rough.


2005 Faucon Dore, CdR La Souche. I've had a number of bottles of this recently and I'm entirely happy. Some are good, balanced in spite of the alcohol (15%, so you really have to go easy), austere but with good refined syrah/grenache fruit, an excellent precise dinner wine. Some are falling apart, alcoholic and disjoint, OK one minute and makes you wonder if you should be drinking it the next. Disappointing and not up to the standards, definitely not to hold.


-E


Thanks for the great notes, Emery. Some of those CdRs are hard to find on these shores, all the more reason I suppose to return to the S Rhone...

Mark Lipton

Yes, about the only ones I find with any regularity is the Roger Perrin.

I actually got the 98 CdC in the US, I think at Calvert and Woodley.

Glad to hear that Roger Perrin is getting some distribution -- not to be confused with the more famous cousins, of course.

I meant, of course, "not entirely happy" with respect to La Souche. AFAIK Faucon Dore doesn't have US distribution, although I think their wines (organic even) would do very well there: high alcohol with tons of fruit; but generally very well crafted, with a lot of finesse and balance (although occasionally I scratch my head). Not sure what happened with this La Souche, though.

-E

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