TN: In praise of older CdR and Bandol

Oct 09, 2004 4 Replies

It is our usual practice to consume Cotes du Rhones in their first 5 years of life. However, with the tumult of the past year, certain wines have slipped through the cracks. As a consequence, we found ourselves opening up a bottle of the '98 Dom. des Girasoles Cotes du Rhone last night with dinner.



nose: intense dark cherry and herbs palate: superb intensity, kirsch, good backbone and full body



This was a wine still in its prime (and a good accompaniment to slow-smoked pork rib BBQ) and could have passed for a minor CdP. Produced by Paul Joyet in Rasteau, it had far more guts and character than a run-of-the-mill CdR. Of course, it also reflects the quality of the '98 vintage in the S. Rhone. It makes me wish that I had kept more '98 CdRs in the cellar...



I also opened a bottle of the '99 Dom du Gros Noré Bandol today. A semi-local retailer's been selling it as "buy one bottle, pay 1¢ for the next" -- a deal I can't refuse. :-)



color: dark purple-red with no visible browning at the edges nose: a big whack of dark plums and stones palate: big, rich, plums, briery, good structure and soft tannins



Still a lot of life left in this one, but it has hit its stride. It is drinking beautifully now and will easily last for another 5 years at least.



Mark Lipton


"Mark Lipton" skrev i meddelandet news:n0K9d.438822$8_6.353920@attbi_s04...

Hello Mark;

Nice to hear something about the `99 from good ole Gros Noré - I have a box of that vintage sleeping in my cellar since that outing back in 2001. SO, you think it´s time to drink `em up? Sure they´re not going down a tunnel?

Cheers

Nils Gustaf

No, Nils, I can profess no great certainty regarding the aging of Bandol. That I leave to our esteemed friend M. Tommasi. From what I know of Mourvedre, I suspect that they age slowly indeed. This was probably the 3rd bottle of the '99 we've had since that visit, and I can say categorically that it's been progressing nicely the whole way. If there was a "dumb" phase I presume that I missed it.

Mark Lipton

According to the brother of Mr Pascal (Mr Pascal), the aging potential of a red Bandol should be 15-20 years (expressed in sign lagnuage, grunts, and a slow torrent of heavily accetned near-French). It´s funny, I have never experienced a red Bandol that I could truly say was in a tunnel. I haven´t started drinking the `99s we bought in 2001 - those from Tour du Bon are marked as 'open 2005-6'.

Cheers

Nils Gustaf

The ones that truly hit a tunnel are the likes of Pradeaux (I claim that this wine is born in the tunnel and never emerges, except for one day; the chances of hitting that day are next to nil). Others like Terrebrune, Tempier, Lafran Veyrolle go through a gentler dumb phase between 5 and 8 years.

I have a meeting today at 11 with Tempier, Terrebrune, Pibarnon, Tour du Bon, Lafran Veyrolle, Bunan, Dupere Barrera tu prepare our Salone del Gusto tasting.

Mike

Mike Tommasi, Six Fours, France email link

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