2nd year vine pruning

I think you mean two "shoots" per vine don't you.

Someone may offer you other advice but if it were me, I would not prune until dormancy. The only time I green prune is when there is prolific growth that is shading grapes.

I guess it depends on how well the shoots are doing. If, for instance,you have 5 vigorous shoots all looking like they'll make the bottom wire then just make sure they all have good sun exposure and leave them be. BUT, if they all are growing weakly I'd cut them back to the 2 best looking and POSITIONED shoots and water the vines. It is possible to have too many shoots right now. I would have pruned back to 2 buds in the spring but that's something you can think about for future vines.

Bob

Ken, I wouldn't remove anything but new growth (green vines) until dormancy. If you cut any of the brown vines you will cause excess "bleeding" and give problems a place to enter the vine.

You can talk about this to 20 grape raisers and get 20 different answers. I attended a pruning class put on by a University, and then went to a friends house and he did it a lot different and produced an excess of grapes each year. Pick out the way that most appeals to you and go with it.

My brother had one grape plant that had been allowed to grow approximately

4 - 5 meters both ways along a fence, with no pruning. It had been there for about 15 years and produced some grapes, but not many. I pruned it for him without cutting them any shorter the first year. The following year he produced a record amount of grapes on one vine. The following year we cut them some shorter, but did the required pruning on the existing vines and they did very well again.

What I like to do is to allow two laterals to grow at one meter in height (and attach them to a wire going in opposite directions - East and West is best), and two more at 11/2 to 2 meters high, and stop the lateral growth at about 1 1/2 to 2 meters long in each direction.

Then the laterals (cordons) produce branches (canes). The canes will then grow and produce leaves and buds. Dont allow then to grow any closer than 6 to 8 CM apart.

Then during your pruning in February or early March, but before dormancy is broke, prune the canes back leaving 2 buds on each. Then if the weather cooperates and you dont have other problems, you will enjoy your grapes.

If you would like to send me your e-mail adress, I would be happy to try to send you a copy of my final notes from the pruning class.

Dwayne

I was too damned afraid to do that. So I left about 4 to 6 buds per plant. So that's what I'm dealing with now. I had some cane girdler damage, and now a small amount of deer problems. I'm using Liquid Fence for that. I hate seeing these set-backs. Btw, just got my wires strung up yesterday, and am using those ratcheting in-line wire tensioners. They are sweet! Ken

Pruning the green wood seems to make sense.

I'm planning on using the training method that a nearby vineyard uses. Check out "The Markko Trellis" on the left.

Dwayne, I'lI also send this direct. I would read any pruning notes you have, if it's not too much bother. Thanks! Ken

Ken,

What grapevines are you growing? What rootstock, if any, are they on? What type of soil do you have? What's the PH? DO they get AT LEAST 8 hrs of sunlight? What is the vine spacing right now?

Bob

Cab Franc on 3309 Chard on 101-14 Reisling on 3309

I don't know how the soil is described. It's only 8 - 10 inches deep, then hits clay. No idea on the pH. I'd say they get 8 hours of sun. Wish I could knock down a tree or two though. My vines are 6 feet apart, 7 feet between the rows.

Ken,

I'm sure you'll have plenty of vigor with that clay beneath. Hopefully the clay isn't to compact. Do you have drainage problems after heavy rains? If so, be carefull not to let the vines over grow and crowd the canopy. I would use the VSP if I were you. The trellis system you showed might have to much foilage if the area is damp often. Better get the spray program ready.

Bob