our grape vines got away from us over the years, and we have three strong canes, but the vines go here, there and up the pear tree ( really). I need to get ahold of these and turn the grape area into more than a nice hedge.
Now it is winter in Iowa, and some days are better than others, but with regards to pruning, what do you suggest to get them more in a productive state.
Hi: O would cut the t;hree trunks to the ground and train the best new trunk to be come a vine next year.
Joe
Joseph - First, buy a copy of "From Vines to Wines" written by Jeff Cox. This book has good illustrations that can help with pruning decisions. If you mean you have three strong, vertical trunks you are in pretty good shape. If so, stand back and look at your vines. Prune out suckers coming from the ground and low growing shoots (I call them canes when they grow from the main trunk). Then, depending on your trellis system, you just have to decide which lateral shoots (again, I call these canes) from last year's (or earlier) growth fill your trellis best. I live in the Kansas City area and don't prune until March...as late as possible before buds swell. Your winters are more severe so I would suggest delaying pruning until the worst of winter is over. You could get started pruning out any obvious over growth now. Then, when warm weather is just around the corner prune the canes you decide to save back to two buds each. These will become the coming year's fruiting wood. What type grapes are you growing?
Bill Frazier Olathe, Kansas USA
"Joseph Toubes" wrote in message news:h_Ksf.441161$084.234170@attbi_s22...
Joseph,
What I would do is prune back to about 24 buds and see how that goes. The buds will be on last years growth which is the growth that doesn't have any bark on it and is probably a tannish color. ex. if you keep trunks then you could keep 1 canes per trunk with each cane having 8 buds each, or keep 2 canes per trunk with 4 buds on each. This pruning , after done, will seem excessive but it's what needs to be done. After the pruning , to the untrained eye, your vine will look like it wouldn't grow but it will. You will be pruning aproximately 95% of last years growth off and any other wood that needs to be cut. When pruning, if your going to keep 8 bud canes, cut the cane after the 9th bud and look at the cane from the end. THe pith ( center) should be small and the xylem ( the next layer out ) should be a greenish color. If the xylem is brown or very dry it's probably dead and you could cut back to the fifth bud and see if it would make a good 4 bud cane. You could also use 6 bud canes. You get the ida, but the goal is to only keep 24 buds from last years growth. Avoid canes near the bottom of the trunk. The canes need to up in the sun. The more reddish tan the cane, usually the better chance it's a good cane.
Bob
Joseph Toubes wrote:
they are supposed to be a red seedless, but not so. I got them about 20 years ago from Earl May when they did their mail order business.
I think a radical pruning is what is going to be needed this spring. My brother lives in your area, he likes the weather.. ice storms are not what I like, but warmer is.
Bill Frazier Olathe, Kansas USA
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