spray recommendations?

I planted 10 Cabernet Sauvignon vines this year (in SE Pennsylvania). They've been growing very well until the Japenese beatles discovered them in the last week or so. I also need to start spraying for powdery mildew but I'm not sure which product is best. Sulpher? Is lime-sulpher typically used? What about Mancozeb?

Any help is appreciated.

Thanks, RD

Reply to
RD
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I planted 10 Cabernet Sauvignon vines this year (in SE Pennsylvania). They've been growing very well until the Japenese beatles discovered them in the last week or so. I also need to start spraying for powdery mildew but I'm not sure which product is best. Sulpher? Is lime-sulpher typically used? What about Mancozeb?

Any help is appreciated.

Thanks, RD

Reply to
Paul E. Lehmann

Rd,

Don't want to alarm you but you should start spraying way before now. Do you know what black rot looks like? It's red spots on the leaves with a thin black outline around them. I'm surprised that unsprayed Cab Sav would not have it already. For Black rot and powdery mildew I would recommend Nova. Paul's post was very informative and was correct. The active ingredient in Nova is Mycobutinil ( sp? ) which is also sold as "Eagle" at Lesco. Get it and spray at 1 level teaspoon per gallon of water. Do it as soon as you can. Also Captan is good for downey mildew protection and you should mix in some Captan also for DM. Like Paul said add some Sevin for the beetles but unless the infestation is extremely bad, they won't hurt you as much as PM,DM, and BR. After you spray the Nova/Captan solution spray it again in 10 days. That should get you going in the right direction.

Bob

RD wrote:

Reply to
doublesb

I planted 10 Cabernet Sauvignon vines this year (in SE Pennsylvania). They've been growing very well until the Japenese beatles discovered them in the last week or so. I also need to start spraying for powdery mildew but I'm not sure which product is best. Sulpher? Is lime-sulpher typically used? What about Mancozeb?

Any help is appreciated.

Thanks, RD

Reply to
Ric

Thanks for the advice. This is a big help! Paul, I saw the Ohio State pest management reference you cited also available as PDF files on the web. I'll post the url here for anyone interested.

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RD

Reply to
RD

Here's a link for some organic control options in case you're interested in some alternatives to chemical controls. Haven't read all of it myself, but when I glanced at the disease control section they said there were no organic controls for black rot, botrytis and some others, but I know there are some out there now. Fungastop is one that is on the market for control of many fungal and bacterial diseases.

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Reply to
miker

Paul,

I'm having trouble locating some of the fungicides mentioned above like at local stores like Agway. Can you recommend a source?

Thanks again for your help, RD

Reply to
RD

Miker,

Organic control of fungus on vinifera??? Good luck.

Bob

miker wrote:

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Reply to
doublesb

Paul,

I'm having trouble locating some of the fungicides mentioned above like at local stores like Agway. Can you recommend a source?

Thanks again for your help, RD

Reply to
Paul E. Lehmann

Sulfur and Stylet Oil are both organic and both will control fungus on vinifera. Fungastop is organic and I've seen tests that show it will control fungus on vinifera. There are plenty of other options out there as well. There are lots of organic vinifera wines on the market, and I'm sure all of those growers see fungus problems and somehow overcome them.

Reply to
miker

snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com wrote: > Miker, >

Sulfur and Stylet Oil are both organic and both will control fungus on vinifera. Fungastop is organic and I've seen tests that show it will control fungus on vinifera. There are plenty of other options out there as well. There are lots of organic vinifera wines on the market, and I'm sure all of those growers see fungus problems and somehow overcome them.

Reply to
Paul E. Lehmann

Kaligreen (potassium bicarbonate) is advertised as an organic approach to powdery mildew. I haven't seen any data on it's efficacy, however.

Reply to
RD

Kaligreen (potassium bicarbonate) is advertised as an organic approach to powdery mildew. I haven't seen any data on it's efficacy, however.

Reply to
Paul E. Lehmann

In California where black rot and Downey Mildew are non-existant, you might be able to get away with it but growing organically in the tropical rain forest conditions of the east is another thing. I would bet most of the organic wines are not vinifera if grown in the east.

Bob

miker wrote:

Reply to
doublesb

BTW,

I have tried to grow organically. It worked extremely well on chamboucin and not so well on vinifera. My secret spray, OxiClean. It's cheap and it's mostly sodium percarbonate. Basically it produces hydrogen peroxide ( oxygen bleach) when mixed with water. It is a very efective sporicide. Actually it's a great sporicide. You need to spray about every 5 days ( a number I came up with based on fungus germination cycles) and the one fungus it doesn't seem to stop is phomopsis cane but I did skip a spray that I shouln't have and the jury is still out on that observation. I had a good and extremely clean harvest. I started spraying the wood in March and continued through harvest. I mixed it in a 5 gallon bucket with warm water and used 2 of the little scoops ( the old scoops that came with oxiclean) per 5 gallons. If some one knows of a way to control phomopsis organically, it would work well. I was surprised how little black rot I had considering chambourcin is extremely sensitive to black rot. You can also spray in the rain, which I did many times, and I think it's better to spray in the rain and take advantage of the water that oxiclean needs to produce the hydogen peroxide that it produces when mixed with water. If I had a mechanical sprayer I probably would have continued this year but my arm almost fell off last year spraying the vineyard so often with a backpack sprayer. I highly recommend the stuff, Oxiclean ( sodium percarbonate ) .

Bob

snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com wrote:

Reply to
doublesb

In California where black rot and Downey Mildew are non-existant, you might be able to get away with it but growing organically in the tropical rain forest conditions of the east is another thing. I would bet most of the organic wines are not vinifera if grown in the east.

Bob

miker wrote: > snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com wrote: > > Miker, > >

Reply to
Paul E. Lehmann

snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com wrote "I have tried to grow organically. It worked extremely well on chamboucin and not so well on vinifera."

Bob - I don't attempt to grow grapes here in the Kansas City area without a multiple fungicide spray schedule. Dithane/Nova alternated with Dithane/Quintec early season. Sub. Captan later. Insecticide infrequently. Your comment about Chambourcin is interesting. I have more problem with Chambourcin and Vignoles than other grapes in the vineyard. C. Franc, C. Sauvignon and Chardonnay leaves show no sign of disease at this time while the leaves of the two hybrids look pretty rough. Where do you grow your Chambourcin? BTW, Baco Noir and NY73 started veraison this week.

Bill Frazier Olathe, Kansas USA

Reply to
William Frazier

snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com wrote "I have tried to grow organically. It worked extremely well on chamboucin and not so well on vinifera."

Bob - I don't attempt to grow grapes here in the Kansas City area without a multiple fungicide spray schedule. Dithane/Nova alternated with Dithane/Quintec early season. Sub. Captan later. Insecticide infrequently. Your comment about Chambourcin is interesting. I have more problem with Chambourcin and Vignoles than other grapes in the vineyard. C. Franc, C. Sauvignon and Chardonnay leaves show no sign of disease at this time while the leaves of the two hybrids look pretty rough. Where do you grow your Chambourcin? BTW, Baco Noir and NY73 started veraison this week.

Bill Frazier Olathe, Kansas USA

Reply to
Paul E. Lehmann

You are absolutely right that it is much easier to grow organically in the drier west and I was going to point that out in my post, but figured the reply would be that the OP was from the east where it is a lot tougher to combat disease - probably it's a lot harder to grow good vinifera grapes in general. I would think there are some people doing it successfully, however.

Interesting about the oxyclean. Perhaps you should consider Oxidate

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another organic fungicide I forgot about. Don't know if it's registered for grapes but at least it is a registered pesticide unlike oxyclean. It's widely used in the greenhouse industry for a variety of disease problems.

As far as the milk for powdery mildew, I have seen the original research on this and it did work in cucurbits. Don't know if anyone has tested it on grapes.

Reply to
miker

Bill,

Is your NY73 the NY73.0136.17 now named Noiret? If so, I just planted some. They're doing the best of what I planted. How do you like them and how is the wine. I saw some info that it had done well in tastings but also heard lately that commercial growers weren't particularly happy. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Dick

infrequently.

Reply to
Richard Heckman

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