Kolsch

I have a relative who lives in Cologne who says that the guideline is to drink only koelsch "ohne 'S'" (he drinks Frueh--and avoids Kueppers and others with 's' in the name).

I imagine that would rule out Shiner.

Actual Cologne Kölsch, or American beers stated to be in that style?

Of the former, Päffgen and Malzmühl.

Of the latter, Goose Island's Summertime is the only I've had that comes remotely close to hitting the style correctly, and they come very, very close.

-Steve

I've heard the term "Rhenisch Blond" proposed for beers in that style.

It no more makes sense for American brewers to make a "Kölsch" than for an American vintner to make a "Champagne" or a "Chablis" or a "Burgundy." About the only excuse - a weak one, IMO - is that the term "Pilsner" has become universal in use for a pale light lager, but the term has become so debased, it's pathetic (cf. Miller Lite's "true taste of Pilsner" crapola). But the brewers of Cologne have gone to the same steps to protect their appelation that the Trappist brewers have. A little respect: is it too much to ask?

Apparently, it is in the USA.

Absolutely. Früh has its place, though, when I look for something a little less hop-forward. Least favorite is Küppers; too bland and sweet. Gilden is okay, Gaffel will do but it's not my favorite, and Reissdorf is fine (not to mention the only actual Kölsch available in my neck of the woods). I used to like Kurfürsten, but it's gone.

It's starting to become a moot point with some of them, though, since so many of them are now brewed in the same place.

Hale's comes pretty close. Rather likeable take on the style, complete with that slight fruit note in the aroma.

One of these days, in the interest of what-the-hell, I'll have to try a blind tasting of Pyramid's Curve Ball, Shiner's Summer "Kölsch-style," Hale's, and Reissdorf. Trouble is, bottled Reissdorf in the USA ... IAVB,M. Mostly due to freshness issues.

I wonder if Goose Island's Kölsch will now see wider distribution in the wake of the Widmer/Anheuser-Busch distribution & marketing deal?

That also rules out Sion, which ain't a bad beer; I'd rather drink Sion than Gaffel. It works for Küppers, I guess, but only sorta works for Reissdorf.

I agree about Mühlen and Päffgen, they're top, and indeed, Früh is still worthwile. The Wiess (unfiltered) from Hellers Brauhaus is also worth mentioning. I wonder, however, if anybody has tasted the Zum Pfaffen Kölsch, at the old Altstad Ausschank of Päffgen? It's officialy not a Kölsch, as it is brewed outside the Kölner Stadtbezirk, but as it is meant as a direct aim at Päffgen, it can hardly be inferior in quality. Unfortunately it closes on Mondays, when this guy choses to visit Köln... Joris

Joris Pattyn a écrit :

I have, 18 months ago, pretty nice, crisp one, IIRC about the same shade as Früh, with a flowery hopping. I still prefer Päffgen.

I had Pfaffen "Kölsch" (it isn't brewed within the prescribed region, so it isn't suppoesed to be a Kölsch) last July. I remember a slightly fruitier beer with a more floral (but not much more) aroma. Concur on preference: I'd rather drink Päffgen. Since there's a pub selling Päffgen just a short walk away, that isn't a tough choice.

Bof, how far is it from Päffgen brewhouse to the Heumarkt? Quarter of an hour walking, maximum. The huge hall at Päffgen lends that extra truthfullness. I "usually" start there, then walk to the Altstadt...

Bierhaus en d'r Salzgass isn't a bad pub, and it's a Päffgen house, so I don't have a problem with it. It's a one-minute walk from Pfaffen, so that's 14 extra minutes of drinking time. The interior's nice, and there's an upstairs area for a panoramic view of the place.

Pfaffen's beer is brewed out in Kellerhohn, 30km SE of the big city, east of Köln/Bonn Airport and the A3 Autobahn. If the brewery had been located just a few km west, it would be brewing "Pfaffen Kölsch" instead of just "Pfaffen."

Reissdorf is my personal favorite. Früh, Kurfürsten Maximilian, Mühlen, and Päffgen are also quite enjoyable.

From the US-brewed stuff that I've found here in Austin so far, I liked Pyramid's Curve Ball best.

Cheers, David

"> Pfaffen's beer is brewed out in Kellerhohn, 30km SE of the big city,

Ah, now THAT was something I didn't know yet - I've been searching for the exact location, without learning. Thanks!

I haven't seen it around yet this year, but the Shiner is a good crisp warm weather beer and usually at a great price compared to other micros available. Sorta suprised me, as I was very nonplussed by Shiner Bock when I first encountered it.

-Tim

If you're in Texas, give St. Arnold's Fancy Lawnmower a go. I find it to be a tad drier (and therefore even better for the heat we're gonna suffer through until October) than Shiner's.

dave in austin sweating even in the rain