Reveillon wines

(or as my daughter put it in her menus: Davis' New Year Eatery).

2002 Luneau-Papin Clos du Poyet (with Breton Crab claws and Nyons OO mayonnaise). A very richly layered, long wine built on a huge flinty backbone. Shells, iodine, toast, citrus... Perfect match for the crab and the deeply flavored mayo.)

1988 Ch. La Nerthe 'Cuvee Cadettes' CdP (with Pheasant stewed in muscat grapes and cognac). A low neck fill, this was one of the bottles that was "forgotten" in storage, although in a dirt floored and fairly cool space. (These wines are a bit prematurely aged if anything.) Still, a big nose of candied plum, and a classic and very elegant CdP, only medium in length and with tannins fully resolved but with a sound structure and enough acids left to make it very balanced. A little over the hill for the pheasant, perhaps.

NV Ruinart 'Brut Rose' (with an assortment of home made cookies, checkerboards and pinwheels on the chocolate side, whiskey/caraway, sesame and holiday sugar cookies). Very fine mousse, nice creamy pinot character, cake and yeast, an enjoyable bottle to bring in 2011. (I prefer the Billecart-Salmon but couldn't procure it).

A very happy New Year to AFW, may your wines and your loved ones be undamaged!

-E

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Emery Davis
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