TN: 1985 St. Estephe

Nov 25, 2006 3 Replies

Last night Betsy made filets in a shallot/vinegar/cream sauce, with braised leeks and barley. I opened the 1985 Ch. Haut-Marbuzet (St. Estephe). Very very round, fully resolved tannins and very low acidity. Fruit is all red plums and currants. Medium-bodied, ok finish. Some aromas of cedar and leather. This is probably a little tired, but I think age is less a problem thant the lack of acidity. I know '85 is supposed to be a very ripe low-acid vintage, but wines like Haut-Brion, Cheval Blanc, L'Evangile, Ducru, Leo-Barton, Cos all seem to have enough acid to balance. Even the somewhat California-esque Lynch-Bages has more acid than this. Pretty unexciting, I'll be generous with a B-.



Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.



Interesting. I still have three bottles of this wine, offered to me at release ('85 being my son's birth year) and stored ever since in my natural underground cellar at 10°C = 50°F, annual variation going from 49 to 51F only.

Reminds me to take a look and maybe open one.

M.

Mine was a purchase a few years ago. I'd expect yours to be younger due to cold storage, but will be interested to hear your take.

Will take a while, but I promise to report.

M.

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